TR2/3/3A TR3 fender patch panel question

[59Rob]

Does anybody have any experience with the Moss front fender patch panels?
I just got them and they are dead flat and they oil can. My door which has never been hit by the looks of it has about 3/8" curve from top to bottom.
Is this normal?

 

[CJD]

I assume you bought the patches that go along the bottom, from the front of the door to the front wheel opening? Once installed, they will have a slight curvature, giving the side of the car a bit of a boat shape. Being flat is not a problem, as the curvature is in a single direction, and not very pronounced. You will have to mark where to cut the old fender, using the new patch. Then cut off the old and weld in the new patch.

What type welder are you using?

 

[59Rob]

I'm using a MIG welder. It's quite a pronounced curve. A repair was done about 40 years ago with a flat piece. I grinded out about 3/8" of filler around the center. Not much point in repeating that process.

 

[59Rob]

Also, yes those are the patch panels I'm using. Here's a pic of the door profile at the front. Obviously the back of the fender needs to match preferably without a gallon of filler.

 

[CJD]

That's about right. You will have no problem getting the curve into the panel. Remove all the filler. It will only cause problems if even a small bit is left behind.

Use small gage MIG wire at a rather low heat to tack the new panel along the horizontal line. Then add the bend and tack it along the door jam and bottom that mounts under the tub. Finally work in the stiffening wire around the wheel opening, which will finish out your curve without any filler.

If you follow the following thread, starting at post #98, you can see my front fender repairs. I did not use patch panels, but the process is exactly the same:

TR2/3/3A - Beginning the TR2 Bodywork

Before I fit the brace, I had to take care of the right end, which I was keeping, but had been pretty rusted out. I took off the end cap with a cut-off disc. Back to my old door skin, I cut out a replacement section, using the old brace cap to get the size right. Sorry for the poor...

www.britishcarforum.com

 

[59Rob]

What do you mean by add the bend? Hammer and dolly the bend in after welding? Wouldn't it be better to add the bend before welding?
Great documentation on your build! I'm going to read that from start to finish, lots of great info. I've restored several cars but this is my first Brit. It's like it was built on another planet

 

[CJD]

The bend is VERY mild in metal terms. If you want to add it first, you can. What holds the bend is the rear flange to the door jam, the bottom flange, and the wire bead in the wheel opening.

 

[59Rob]

I think I need to remove the rear flange and hopefully use a shrinker on it. Currently it's also dead straight so it isn't going to hold any curve. I'll use an English wheel and put at least a bit of curve in the patch panel.
I think in hindsight I would have been better off making my own from scratch.

 

[DavidApp]

I had to make a replacement rear flange and found the HF Shrinker and stretcher did a great job. Got it curved very nicely. I did have oil canning issues at first but found it was probable caused by the inner sill being placed in the wrong position by the PO. I bolted the top portion of the wing to the body and then the patch panel to the inner sill to get the distance correct. It was about 1/8" or more longer than the wing that had come off the car. The 1/2" of bondo may have hidden the oil canning before.
Short hot tacks and move around the repair.
David

 

[59Rob]

That sounds about right, I had a ton of mud on it, definitely takes care of the oil canning.
I figure a little English wheel work will take care of the oil canning in the new patch. Hopefully my little shrinker will do the job in the flange, if not I have a friend with an industrial size one.
I think fitting and welding it is best on the car as you did. Won't be able to get to that for a bit. Still need to rip out everything in the engine bay plus dash and pedals, then get the body off. Long road ahead

 

[59Rob]

The shrinker and English wheel worked well. It will probably need some final tweaking before welding but it has some shape and no more oil canning. Still need to do the other side.