OK, trevor. You peaked my curiosity and I found a picture of the older style MGA/spridget type guage and the face is the same except that the older one has numbers on the temp face. It looks as though the 212 point on the old gauge is exactly where the H white mark range starts on the the newer kind. So I am exactly calibrated at the right place for the boiling point. I know with antifreeze and a 10psi cap that it could go higher but now I know I am good at the important point. If it doesn't go up against the stop at the cold point then so be it. I still have the full span of the N range and I like it. I imagine that the gauge has been out of cal for a long time and I am just now finding it, because with the ether pressure point being always the same for a given temp in a sealed system and the bourbon tube being untouched, it must have been off before. Any of you guys that are in mid resto of whatever might want to check your temp gauges. Just drop the bulb in some boiling water and it should read just right into the white mark for H to be in cal. I kind of wish I had the older face, but now I know and I am good to go. I got some more brass tubing already drilled out is anyone needs some for a sleeve. I used the cheap 16.99 sunpro black face gauge from advance as the donor and the capillary tube is the exact same size (within .002) as the Smiths capillary tube. I used a weller soldering gun on the 230watt range. I solder on a regular basis with electrical stuff and I also had worked with soldering tubing before so this was not hard at all. after sanding with some fine paper and wiping everything down good with a rag and some rubbing alcohol (including the solder to be used) I put a spot of rosin flux on each piece to be soldered and tinned it and then soldered the sleeve onto the smith's capillary and then before I cut the sunpro one I cut the spring cover and pulled it back as far as I dared and then sanded tinned and soldered a small brass washer right there to hold the spring cover back out of the way. Then I sanded and tinned a spot on the sunpro capillary. Then notched it with a file about 1/2 inch down from there and broke the tube and slipped it inside the sleeve and then soldered it up. With a clean joint and some flux the joint was great the first time, then I removed the brass washer I had soldered on to keep the spring cover back and let it come up over the sleeve. The cover was short of reaching all the way to the gauge by an inch but I stretched it a bit in several places and it fit good. Then 3 layers of shrink wrap to hold the spring to the gauge good and done. I used a salt water/ice bath for keeping the bulb cold. If anyone else is going to do this, let me know if I can help, or I can do it for you when I have time if you send it to me.