Oil in rear carb

[AUSMHLY]

Just had the valves adjusted by my mechanic. After doing so, the car did not idle well when coming to a stop. Would drop to about 500 rpm. Went back to the mechanic, he adjusted the carbs. Next day, same thing happened, car drops to about 500-600 rpms at a stop. So I checked the timing. Timing was now at 10 instead of 15 TDC. After I adjusted the timing, I adjusted the carbs. Found oil in the rear carb. Here's my questions.

1. Why do valves need to be adjusted and how many miles between adjustments?
2. Why did the timing change from 15 to 10? (Related to the valve adjustment, if not, then why did it change)
3. I found oil in the rear carburetor, why is it there (photo attached showing how much)

Brought the car back to the mechanic, told him about the timing, that I found oil in the rear carb and I re-adjusted the carbs. He said cars running too lean now. As he was trying to adjust the carbs, he told me he feels there's something wrong with the rear carb. He put his fingers in the tail pipes and said you have oil in the right pipe, which comes from the rear carb.

4. He told me to remove the slow adjustment screw on the rear carb and see if the rubber seal is worn. He's trying to figure out why the rear carb is having a problem. Both carbs were completely gone though by him and a rebuild kit was installed some years ago.
5. He thinks the camshaft is worn and needs to be replaced.

What I find interesting is the car was running tip-top except for the tapping noise. Idle was great, as was performace. Now I have these issues after the valve adjustment. (Well not sure about the oil in the carb and tailpipe as related or not to the valve adjustment)

 

[Keith_M]

I'm not sure about a BJ8, but on my BT7 the air cleaner for the rear carb is connected to the vent on top the valve cover. If you have a lot of oil coming out of the rockers, you will get oil sprayed up into that vent and into the rear air cleaner. Start the engine and look through the oil filler cap on top the valve cover. Oil should just seep out of the top of the rockers. If it's squirting, your rocker shaft is worn.

I don't know about the valves; I adjust mine every year, but even when they're set correctly there is a tapping noise from my engine. I've heard it from other Healey engines as well. I would be interested to know if anyone else knows what it is.

Keith

 

[John Turney]

I agree with Keith that the oil is coming from the valve cover vent and how to check it.

Valve adjustments should slow down as the valve train parts wear. Initial wear is higher and then slows down as parts begin to mate.

If the mechanic didn't change the timing, there would be no reason for it to change, assuming it is measured the same way each time (static, or with a timing light at the same idle speed and vacuum disconnected).

If you're suddenly getting oil in the carb, I would suspect the mechanic did something to a/the rocker arm(s) to cause that.

 

[EV2239]

If there's a tapping noise from a Healey engine with the Tappets set correctly, odds are the cam and followers are worn. Otherwise they're an extremely quiet engine unlike the A and B Series.

Oil in the rear carburettor comes from the breather, which means crankcase pressure caused by blowby from worn rings and Pistons.

The timing won't change, but points have a habit of closing up and retarding the timing, so always check points gap before adjusting timing. If the timing is retarded by points closing, the tick over will slow.

 

[Keoke]

Oil in the rear carburettor comes from the breather, which means crankcase pressure caused by blowby from worn rings and Pistons

I agree with EV2239

N:

If the breather "T" pipe on the valve cover is screwed down too far it will siphon oil into the breather hose and then deposit it in the rear carb. Known BJ8 trick

 

[AUSMHLY]

I agree, oil is coming from the breather, how else could it get into the rear carb, right?
I don't have points, running Pertonix. So why do you think the timing changed?

Keoke, how does one tell if the T pipe is screwed down too far? Here's a photo of mine, top and bottom.

Mechanic said someone pinged the rocker arms. (why was that done?) Photo attached.

 

[BG 62AH]

IMHO, the oil in the carb has to do with two issues; 1) adjustment to the height of the "T" pipe on the rocker arm cover, and 2) if the rocker arm shaft is becoming worn out.
Replacing, the rocker arm shaft, and having the rockers bushed will eliminate some of the valve tap, better control oil spray inside the rocker cover, and help improve oil pressure. I feel these are a good place to investigate.
I feel that all flat tappet engines, like our will have some level of ticking sounds coming from the valves/rockers area.
The timing change is less clear, my only thought is that the timing will retard as the rpm's drop, even at the idle speeds set for tuning.
Just some thoughts, similar to some that were previously mentioned. I hope they help.

 

[Keoke]

Keoke, how does one tell if the T pipe is screwed down too far? Here's a photo of mine, top and bottom.

Well:
just remove it then replace it using the minimum penetration -- Fewest turns down-to get it secured with the lock nut.

However, your valve cover does not have a baffle under the "T" pipe-????

I don't have points, running Pertonix. So why do you think the timing changed?

Incorrectly set initially . Ole pertronx do not change timing once set.-

 

[EV2239]

If it's in good condition, a C Series engine is extremely quiet, but cam and follower wear eventually make for tappet noise. Unlike the A and B Series, they're surprisingly quiet with a bit of rocker shaft wear.

A bit of blowby wont hurt, but keep an eye on oil level.

If the timing is moving around a bit around tickover, it suggests the distributor might benefit from overhaul. It's a bob weight spring issue.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Run the engine til you get it warmed up and then take the valve cover off. Restart the engine and see if oil us oozing or squirting from the rocker shaft. Look for a leak around the banjo bolt that attaches the oil feed pipe to the rocker shaft pedestal. Look at the T fitting from the underside of the valve cover, it shouldn't protrude too far from the underside of the valve cover.

timing won't change with your Pertronix. Check that the clamping ring that holds the dizzy in place is actually bolted securely to the mounting block. After checking that it is or isn't, check that the clamping ring will tighten correctly around the base of the dizzy. After tightening, be sure that you can't turn the dizzy with your hand. If you can turn it then you need to remove it and checked for a cracked base. They can be repaired if cracked.

Use an an oil catch can instead of running the hose to the rear carb from the T fitting.

 

[John Turney]

Keoke, how does one tell if the T pipe is screwed down too far? Here's a photo of mine, top and bottom.

....

However, your valve cover does not have a baffle under the "T" pipe-????

....-

Good point. That baffle would help slow the oil down. I noticed some oil pooled on top of the rocker pedestal. On mine (with a new rocker shaft) oil doesn't collect there.

 

[AUSMHLY]

Good point. That baffle would help slow the oil down. I noticed some oil pooled on top of the rocker pedestal. On mine (with a new rocker shaft) oil doesn't collect there.

What baffle? I don't see that part listed in the Moss diagram. Can someone provide a photo, part # or link to where that part is
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28854

Mechanic recommends I replace the rocker shaft with a rebuilt unit.
Any recommendations of who's good at rebuilding or haveing exchange units.

 

[British_Recovery]

The baffle is part of an original sheet metal valve cover, and therefore not a separate part. To answer why the rocker arms were "pinged" (hammered down): probably an attempt to limit oil flow from a worn rocker shaft. Sometimes the holes are welded or brazed closed for the same reason.
Bob

 

[AUSMHLY]

Next question. The new cork gasket is leaking. Mechanic used a spray adhesive. Seems like the two valve cover knobs can't pull the aluminum cover down enough to compress the cork. I tried putting an additional copper washer under the fiber washer in case the knobs were bottoming out. Even with that, I can't get the cork to compress to make it's own seal. Seems like I need a gel sealant vs spray on.

He mentioned that I look for a rubber type material gasket vs cork. Anyone heard of know where to find that?
What sealant do you use with the cork gasket? Brand, model etc that I can get at the local auto parts store.

Cheers.

 

[AUSMHLY]

The baffle is part of an original sheet metal valve cover, and therefore not a separate part. To answer why the rocker arms were "pinged" (hammered down): probably an attempt to limit oil flow from a worn rocker shaft. Sometimes the holes are welded or brazed closed for the same reason.
Bob

Makes sense Bob. Well being I have an aftermarket cover I'm not going to have that. Would insearting some sort of filter in the T-pipe work? If so, what would I use?
Pinged most likely worn rocker shaft.
Nice segway to my previous post...
Mechanic recommends I replace the rocker shaft with a rebuilt unit.
Any recommendations of who's good at rebuilding or haveing exchange units.

 

[HealeyRick]

Any recommendations of who's good at rebuilding or haveing exchange units.

These guys used to be called Rocker Arm Specialists and were good and reasonably priced https://www.rockerarms.com/pages/austin.html I haven't had any rcent experience with them, though.

 

[Keoke]

Mechanic recommends I replace the rocker shaft with a rebuilt unit.
Any recommendations of who's good at rebuilding or haveing exchange units.

David Knock or Healey Surgeons can also do it .

 

[Keoke]

He mentioned that I look for a rubber type material gasket vs cork. Anyone heard of know where to find that?
TRY:-???
Gasket Innovations;
stevedowningdevelopment@gmail.com

WWW.gasketinnovations.com

Cost was $20.00/ea some time ago.


What sealant do you use with the cork gasket? Brand, model etc that I can get at the local auto parts store.

None , clean block and pan surfaces with acetone.

Then because most of the aftermarket cork gaskets are too large cut them to exactly fit the cover foot print. By making a 45 degree cut on each side aligned with one front hold down bolt and one rear one on the other side rejoin the cuts with Super glue Thick type.--Install

 

[John Turney]

These guys used to be called Rocker Arm Specialists and were good and reasonably priced https://www.rockerarms.com/pages/austin.html I haven't had any rcent experience with them, though.

One of our guys recently used them and was happy. If you need to do it, get the hardened rocker shaft. It may go by the name "Tuftrided" or nitrided.

 

[John Turney]

Next question. The new cork gasket is leaking. Mechanic used a spray adhesive. Seems like the two valve cover knobs can't pull the aluminum cover down enough to compress the cork. I tried putting an additional copper washer under the fiber washer in case the knobs were bottoming out. Even with that, I can't get the cork to compress to make it's own seal. Seems like I need a gel sealant vs spray on.

He mentioned that I look for a rubber type material gasket vs cork. Anyone heard of know where to find that?
What sealant do you use with the cork gasket? Brand, model etc that I can get at the local auto parts store.

Cheers.

Moss has their silicone valve cover gaskets on sale: https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=130792