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TulsaFred
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Just finished the rear hubs on my bugeye.
Gerard's website (and various posts) outline the procedure.
There are a few areas that I found could use some elaboration, so I'll go over the steps I used.
1. Remove rear wheels and brake drums.
2. Remove single retaining screw and withdraw axle. (the axle is held in place by the wheel/lugs).
3. Remove the hub nut (1 7/8 inch socket needed). I used a harbor freight "earthquake" impact wrench. The driver side nut is reverse thread, i.e.. lefty tighty, righty loosey...
4. Remove hub. Best method is to reverse the brake drum and reattach to hub, then use rubber mallet around the periphery to remove hub.
5. Clean the mating surface on the diff housing, using emery as needed. If corroded, use a "speedy sleeve".
6. To remove bearing from hub, you must use a socket to drift out. You must drive it out using the inner race of the bearing, because the outer race is not accessible due to the hub design. This risks "popping" the bearing and damaging it, but it is the only way. Fortunately, most people say they can tap it out without damage most of the time. It worked for me without a problem I used my vice and set the jaws so the hub flange would rest on the jaws, but the opening was wide enough to not obstruct the bearing, allowing it to drop out below.
7. Now remove the oil seal. This is tricky because there is no way to get purchase on the metal part of the seal, just the rubber. I used a small cold chisel and small flat blade screwdriver as follows:
a. cut away the rubber lip of the lip seal (I used the chisel).
b. drive the small flat screwdriver blade between the outer metal (covered in rubber) rim of the seal and the hub. Pry the rim inward
to create a small bend allowing you to...
c. use small cold chisel to flatten and partially cut the rim of the seal.
d. Turn the hub over and use the chisel to get purchase on the flattened area of the rim you just created. Tap it outward until you see
a gap develop between the seal and the deep mating surface of the hub.
e. insert the flat blade screwdriver in the gap above and go around the circumference prying the seal away from the deep surface. It
will soon give way and drop out. SEE THE PICS I've attached.
8. Now is a good time to clean/bead blast/ paint the bare hubs.
9. Replace oil seal. You need a carefully selected socket size to drift it in since you need to drive on the outer metal perimeter of the seal.
10. Clean and repack bearing if reusing (I did because the original bearing was fine and I wasn't sure about quality of replacements). I cleaned mine with diesel fuel, dried, and repacked with grease. Repacking is a little unusual because the bearing has metal shields covering both sides of the ball bearings. This leaves only a small gap between the shield and the outer race to try to squeeze grease in. I just crammed it in the circumference of the gap, spun the bearing, crammed in more, spun again, etc. Seemed to work ok.
11. Tap the bearing back in the hub using the 1 7/8 socket used on the hub nut. Drive on the outer race. The "R and M" markings on my bearing went on the inner side of the hub.
.
Gerard's website (and various posts) outline the procedure.
There are a few areas that I found could use some elaboration, so I'll go over the steps I used.
1. Remove rear wheels and brake drums.
2. Remove single retaining screw and withdraw axle. (the axle is held in place by the wheel/lugs).
3. Remove the hub nut (1 7/8 inch socket needed). I used a harbor freight "earthquake" impact wrench. The driver side nut is reverse thread, i.e.. lefty tighty, righty loosey...
4. Remove hub. Best method is to reverse the brake drum and reattach to hub, then use rubber mallet around the periphery to remove hub.
5. Clean the mating surface on the diff housing, using emery as needed. If corroded, use a "speedy sleeve".
6. To remove bearing from hub, you must use a socket to drift out. You must drive it out using the inner race of the bearing, because the outer race is not accessible due to the hub design. This risks "popping" the bearing and damaging it, but it is the only way. Fortunately, most people say they can tap it out without damage most of the time. It worked for me without a problem I used my vice and set the jaws so the hub flange would rest on the jaws, but the opening was wide enough to not obstruct the bearing, allowing it to drop out below.
7. Now remove the oil seal. This is tricky because there is no way to get purchase on the metal part of the seal, just the rubber. I used a small cold chisel and small flat blade screwdriver as follows:
a. cut away the rubber lip of the lip seal (I used the chisel).
b. drive the small flat screwdriver blade between the outer metal (covered in rubber) rim of the seal and the hub. Pry the rim inward
to create a small bend allowing you to...
c. use small cold chisel to flatten and partially cut the rim of the seal.
d. Turn the hub over and use the chisel to get purchase on the flattened area of the rim you just created. Tap it outward until you see
a gap develop between the seal and the deep mating surface of the hub.
e. insert the flat blade screwdriver in the gap above and go around the circumference prying the seal away from the deep surface. It
will soon give way and drop out. SEE THE PICS I've attached.
8. Now is a good time to clean/bead blast/ paint the bare hubs.
9. Replace oil seal. You need a carefully selected socket size to drift it in since you need to drive on the outer metal perimeter of the seal.
10. Clean and repack bearing if reusing (I did because the original bearing was fine and I wasn't sure about quality of replacements). I cleaned mine with diesel fuel, dried, and repacked with grease. Repacking is a little unusual because the bearing has metal shields covering both sides of the ball bearings. This leaves only a small gap between the shield and the outer race to try to squeeze grease in. I just crammed it in the circumference of the gap, spun the bearing, crammed in more, spun again, etc. Seemed to work ok.
11. Tap the bearing back in the hub using the 1 7/8 socket used on the hub nut. Drive on the outer race. The "R and M" markings on my bearing went on the inner side of the hub.
.
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