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The Goodparts triple intake setup is designed originally to accept the stock throttle linkage, which most of you know that run this setup is cumbersome at best. Many of us have switched over to the Ratco cable throttle with good success. Both the OE throttle and Ratco are connected to the carb throttle shaft between the second and third carbs and the stock double choke cable is connected to the first and third carb. I have found this to be cumbersome in that the Ratco cable gets put into a slight bind because of the fairly extreme angle the cable is curved into. I have moved my choke cables to the 2nd and 3rd carbs and moved the Ratco throttle to between the 1st and 2nd carbs. To do this, I had to cut part of the choke arm off the 1st carb for the throttle to work without binding, which it will do. And, I shortened the longest choke cable by cutting about 6" off it and adding a stop on that cable as well, so now both cables have stops to prevent over-choking or attempting such.
Cutting the choke wound-steel sheath I accomplished using a very thin dental diamond wheel and very, very carefully cut through the coil till it neatly separated, slid off the excess sheath and appropriately shortened the actually choke wire. The result is a somewhat neater setup, no binding, and less choke wires sticking up in the air. Note too that the little chrome sleaves that are at the end of choke cables are there only to act as stops for the little wire stops. These are little crimpable brass sleeves that I crimped and soldered to the wire (quickly so as not to overheat the wire). The only part that might be a challenge for the rest of you is acquiring the diamond cut-off disc, and the $1000 Foredom variable-speed dental bench engine (used at very low rpm) to do this. Part of my trade finally paid off.
Note also that those little chromed caps at the end of the choke cables were not intended to be clamped down with the stock spring-steel clips atop the carbs. The cable is plenty strong enough to be clipped somewhere on the plastic sheathed part of the cable. Attempting to clamp over the end of the cable, over this end cap, will cause the clips to shatter. Trust me, the new replacement clips are junk compared to OE. I have broken four of them trying this. Dave at TRF scrounged some used OE ones for me and have yet to break these. Besides, the choke cable won't work at this length if clamped at the sleeve. You will lose a lot of choking ability.
Cutting the choke wound-steel sheath I accomplished using a very thin dental diamond wheel and very, very carefully cut through the coil till it neatly separated, slid off the excess sheath and appropriately shortened the actually choke wire. The result is a somewhat neater setup, no binding, and less choke wires sticking up in the air. Note too that the little chrome sleaves that are at the end of choke cables are there only to act as stops for the little wire stops. These are little crimpable brass sleeves that I crimped and soldered to the wire (quickly so as not to overheat the wire). The only part that might be a challenge for the rest of you is acquiring the diamond cut-off disc, and the $1000 Foredom variable-speed dental bench engine (used at very low rpm) to do this. Part of my trade finally paid off.
Note also that those little chromed caps at the end of the choke cables were not intended to be clamped down with the stock spring-steel clips atop the carbs. The cable is plenty strong enough to be clipped somewhere on the plastic sheathed part of the cable. Attempting to clamp over the end of the cable, over this end cap, will cause the clips to shatter. Trust me, the new replacement clips are junk compared to OE. I have broken four of them trying this. Dave at TRF scrounged some used OE ones for me and have yet to break these. Besides, the choke cable won't work at this length if clamped at the sleeve. You will lose a lot of choking ability.
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