Choke cable question on Triple ZS setups

[Brosky]

I now have about 500 miles on my new carbs and I've got everything setup pretty well at this time. The idle, mixture and balance is fine and the linkage seems to be just right at this point in time, so no further issues there.

My only issue is a binding in the choke cable on pulling it out, but more especially on pushing it back in. I thought that the problem was in the rear carb and the way that Erik and I tied it together, so I stopped by and we confirmed that this was a point of friction or dragging, which causes a bind of sorts. After cutting the tie strap and rerouting around the battery cable all was well.

Then I got home and started it the next day and the cable was binding again. I open the hood, try the choke and no problems. I'm using the front and rear carbs as the choke units and I think that the hood is pushing down on the radius in the cable to the front carb and causing the bind.

Has anyone found a way to overcome this? A cable in a straight line will become a problem, since it has to drop down to a 90 degree angle at the carb and that's where the problem seems to be, if there isn't a nice curving arc to allow smooth movement back and forth. Actually, it's similar to the throttle cable that I just installed, with that method of operation.

Bill, Shawn, LDL. You guys find a fix for this?

 

[LastDeadLast]

Paul,

Hmmm... I've got my choke cable on the #1 and #3 carbs with absolutely no binding at all.. one of few things that didn't require any tweaking after installing the setup.

Now the heater control valve is a completely different story, but I digress.

 

[Guest]

Paul, you gotta floor-board the gas peddle before you attempt to pull out the throttle cable when first starting it.

 

[Brosky]

Bill,

I'm aware of the floor boarding procedure. I posted that advice to a newbie months ago. On my twin carbs, the cable worked so well that half throttle was all that was needed to smoothly pull out or push in the cable.

This problem occurs if I cut down on the arc of the cable to either of the carbs. For example when the hood pushes down on the slack in the front carb cable, making the angle less steep than with it in a "free" state.

I don't have the problem pulling the cable out as much as pushing it back in.

FWIW, my heater cable works very smoothly, or at least it did until I posted this!

 

[RobT]

No problem binding on the TR250 - but then I have the "power bulge" on the bonnet over the carbs. This gives more clearance. Paul - perhapst that what you beed on the 6 - a power bulge over the carbs too. Could look kinda cool.

Rob.

 

[swift6]

I only need half throttle to ease the choke pull. It slides home easily when I release the choke as well. No binding for me. Choke the front and rear carb as well. Standard cable lengths. Not sure if I am experiencing the same problem you are.

My heater cable pulls/pushes smoothly, its the valve that doesn't want to close easily. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

I've seen a TR6 with a power bulge. It was... interesting.

 

[Brosky]

I think that the problem is in the rear carb. I had my wife trying to push in the cable today, while I watched the linkage and the front was opened and the back was sticking closed. I had to reach down and push the cam down with my hand and I saw that it was sticking.

I think that this is the main issue. Now to figure out why after it cools down. We just had a beautiful two hour cruise and I took her out on the highway for the first time. I can't believe how quickly it goes from 60 to 90 now that the tri carbs are on. My wife was with me so I backed off, but there was plenty left to go after that.