Fixed Battery Leak-I hope

[Tinster]

A lot of good advice given to me about my battery install.
I stripped everything out this morning and started from
scratch.

I attemped to isolate the battery in such a manner that no
electricity could leak out or escape and cause fires or fry
other components.

The battery tie down bars and horizontal hold bar were my
culprits. I imagine most TR6 have similar designs. I think
my finished concept works (for now). Vibration will
eventually erode the neoprene, shrink wrap and layers of
paint.

Here is Amos' battery with new connectors. But why does the
positive terminal have a ground wire coming off it? I DID
NOT take that ground wire to the engine block.

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[AweMan]

Dale:
If that is the Positive Post or Hot {non earth} side of the battery DO NOT ground that wire to anything.
Aftermarket cables commonly come with just such a wire on the positive {Hot} side of the connection. This additional wire is usualy for either an altenator charging circut or can be used to supply current to another device such as fog lights, radio, or something simular. Ground it and I assure you, you will not like the results.

 

[TR3driver]

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Odd that it's black, though.

My suggestion would be to take a sharp knife and cut it right at the surface of the battery clamp; being careful not to cut into the main cable. You don't need it and there's no sense in leaving it loose to potentially cause a problem.

 

[Guest]

I vote to leave it. Would make an excellent lead for a Delco alternator or even a lead for an electric fan. Just keep it well insulated if not used.

 

[Guest]

And buy yourself a Triumph battery box from one of the big 3 vendors.

 

[Guest]

Better than that, send me your mailing address and I will send you a new one that I don't use (have a gel battery now) and save the 50 or 60 bucks they cost. I have never installed this one.

 

[trrdster2000]

Dale and all,

What we have here is a 24 NF battery, which has the poles at the front, most of us have them, but the right one has the poles at the back, but try and find one with the poles in the right place.

Sorry I can't recall the number for the right one. C9 Lucas
for the TR250 had the poles in the front, but I think the TR6 had them in the back because of the problem you describe.

Wayne

 

[Andrew Mace]

Dale, I've a couple of possible suggestions; take them with the proverbial grain of salt.

1. You could replace the nuts (#5) with wing nuts. I don't know about TR6s, but most of the Heralds I've owned had wing nuts there as original equipment.

2. On the positive terminal, you might consider reversing the pinch bolt to give just a bit more space between it and the hold-down bar, and maybe then reorient that terminal from 3 o'clock to about 2 o'clock.

 

[Bugeye58]

Wayne, it's a matter of orientation, left or right, rather than front or rear. You should be able to find either a 24L or a 24R. You then mount the battery with the posts to the rear, with the terminals on the correct side of the car.
I'll do some checking tomorrow to verify that.
<span style="color: #FF0000">EDIT</span>
I checked and the correct battery is a 24F or 24 F MF.
I also posted this information later in this thread.
Jeff

 

[Tinster]

Thanks Bill,

I'll take you up on your offer. A nice Christmas present
for Amos. Gracias, amigo. I'll have to go see what a
Triumph battery box looks like.

I have installed a Delco alternator as a component of my
Dan Masters Power Block wire harness. My yellow wire
connects at the bottom end of the red battery cable.
Some bolt on my new starter.

I'll redesign the battery hold down set-up with non-metal
components. That will cure and possible battery electical
leakages.

I'll e-mail you my address here in the tropic. You want
the shipping box back? I could fill it with skeeters. We
have many just now.

regards,

d

 

[davidk]

Dale, I have the same aftermarket hold down bar you have. When I first installed it, it was too close to the terminals. I found that turning it over 180 degrees moved it farther away from the terminals. You might try it and see if it helps.

 

[Tomster]

Plastic parts dip (your choice of colours) is a great insulating and vibration material and is also an alternative to powder coating the main bar and long tie bolts.
I put a neoprene pad under my battery inside the battery box as well

 

[Bugeye58]

For information purposes, with the posts toward the firewall, sitting in the drivers seat, the BCI group 24 battery will have the positive post on the left. A group 24<span style="color: #FF0000">F</span> or 24<span style="color: #FF0000">F MF </span>will have it on the right side. The tie down bar will be at the front, well away from the terminals.
I just physically looked at both batteries.
Jeff

 

[trrdster2000]

Jeff, Thanks I will put that in the book for the future.

Wayne