TR4/4A Breaking in a new rebuilt engine

[Tony P]

After a complete rebuild on my engine I stayed with the dilemma of what type of oil to use to break in my new engine. Some folks said just use any 30 wt oil, some said use a 10-30 wt. after talking to a mechanic at a British/European shop he suggested using Royal Purple Break in oil for the first 1k miles.

what do you guys think, I'm sure some of you have faced the same question. How did it work for you.

 

[TR4nut]

I used Brad Penn break in oil and I'm guessing it worked as advertised! I would use a break in oil for sure, just to get the extra zinc in there at the beginning. I don't know the reputation of Royal Purple too much, but one thing I have seen people talk about is to avoid synthetics (like Royal Purple I think) as they may be tougher to get the piston rings to seat. So for me, I'll stick with Brad Penn, or possibly Joe Gibbs versions of a decent break in oil instead. And I think those will be cheaper too.

 

[DornTRoriginal]

For what it's worth my opinion is that I have the same delima. I am/are planing to use a 5-30 weight simply because I have some on hand and I only plan to run it in the engine for a short period of time then use to "good stuff" (expensive) Brad Penn 30 wt. I have no real "experience" but based on what I have discussed with others it has meet with mutual approval. I am interested in what others recommend too!

 

[PeterK]

I would save the 5w30 for your modern cars and break in with break-in oil when the correct oil is MOST important to long engine life. IMO, of course! ISTR Brad Penn is the new old Kendall brand whose GT1 oil was always tops in my experience.

 

[Keith_M]

I would definitely use a break-in oil. Modern oils don't contain enough zinc for flat lifters.

 

[CJD]

If any part of the engine will be damaged in the break in, it'll be the cam and lifters. They don't take 1,000 miles, though. They'll either make it or not in the first 30 minutes of running. Fortunately, we aren't using terribly high valve spring pressures, so the cam is not that hard to break in anyway.

 

[PAUL161]

Assuming you have the cam and lifters coated with the manufactures recommended lube, what ever you do, don't let it idle as soon as you fire it up! Crank it with the plugs out to get oil pressure in the system, reinstall the plugs and fire it up. Immediately get the rpms up to 1500 to 2000 and hold it there for at least 20 minutes. Naturally use the proper break in oil! This break in period will aid in determining the life of the engine. This is how we always broke in old Ford flat head racing engines with flat tappets and high lift cams. Never destroyed a cam on break in. PJ

 

[Tony P]

Ok, after some indecision, I got the quart container of Royal Purple and called the Tech Support number on the jug. Got hold of a tech support guy and was told that the Royal Purple break in oil is the only oil they have that is conventional oil with a viscosity of 10 w 30. But it has the zinc, phosphorus and refined mineral oils required for the break in process. He recommended a break in period of 500 to 1000 miles depending on the type of driving I would be doing aggressive less and street driving, more. So, with the information you guys have given me and the info from the tech guy, I think I will run Royal purple for my break in period. I will post the results from the the house or the side of the road as to which was the right decision.

Thanks, Tony