TR6 76 TR6 Rear Brake Installation

[Don_Houston]

The new brake cylinder has a slot in it (the old one does not, it is flat) on the emergency brake side. It looks like the brake shoe wants to fit into that slot, but I have tried many angles and it will not go into that slot.

Can anyone confirm that it does go into that slot and any tips on how to adjust the brake shoe and/or emergency brake mechanism to get it into the slot?

On my initial try the brake drum will not fit over the brake shoes (maybe related to question above). Any idea what might be going on?

Many Thanks!

 

[poolboy]

Do you have the shoe upside down ?
Once you get that squared away you may have to back off the adjuster because of the thickness of the lining on the new shoes.

 

[Don_Houston]

I am pretty sure I have the brake shoe in the correct orientation as there seems to be only one way it will go for the slot at the top to align with the em. brake mechanism.

Can you confirm that the brake shoe should go into the slot on the cylinder? My inability to get it into the slot may have something to do with the alignment of the em. brake mechanism?

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

Sometimes a picture is all you need. This is the best picture I have on hand and I hope it helps...

 

[Don_Houston]

This photo confirms that the brake shoe does need to go into the slot in the cylinder so my em. brake must not be in the correct place. Does the "cylindrical catch post" on the em. brake arm rest on the brake cyliner housing or in front of it against the brake backing plate? (I have a good photo of how I have it now, but don't know how to post it).

Many Thanks.

 

[TR3driver]

Neither one. There is a cavity under the flange on the brake cylinder, the pivot posts (which the British call trunnions) are supposed to be inserted into that cavity during the cylinder installation process. You'll have to take the center retaining plate back out to get it in there.

 

[Don_Houston]

Excellent advice. Got it in ok. The drum (new) still will not fit over the new shoes. Maybe the shoes are still not completely seated properly. The adjuster screw on the bottom is all the way in. Any suggestions?

 

[Gliderman8]

If the adjuster screw is all the way in... I believe that forces the brake shoe out which would then make it difficult to install the drum. Back out the adjuster screw and the drum should go on easier, then use the adjuster screw to adjust the brakes.

 

[Opa]

Don, quite often brake shoes for drum brakes need to be arced to fit the drum.This requires takeing shoes and drums to a brake specialty shop to have them ground to fit.The last set(Raybestos) that I put in my Tr6 where all of .030 to big for the drums.They also did not touch the drum in the centre,just the ends made contact with the drum.

 

[mrv8q]

If the adjuster screw is all the way in....

While you're there, if you haven't already, now is a good time to clean those brake adjusters. Very simple to take apart, clean, and lube. Mine were pretty groady from not being used....

 

[JerryVV]

New shoes need to be well centered for the drum to go on. It will go if all is aligned properly but it may be a tight fit. Just did this so have the experience to back up my comments.

 

[TR3driver]

Definitely good advice, on both points. If you take the shoes back off, you may be able to hold them up to the drum and see where they don't touch, then file down the high spots yourself with a coarse file. Used to be that FLAPS would arc the shoes for you, but last time I asked I just got a blank stare. The arcing process also makes them work much better (in my experience anyway).

But it may also be necessary to move the cylinder around a bit, which may require some love taps with a hammer. Also check that both ends of both shoes are sitting on the bottom of their respective slots. There should be a small amount of freeplay in the parking brake lever.

 

[BobbyD]

Here's some more pictures that may help you out along with links to a couple of good articles.

https://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BrakeUpgrade2.htm

 

[Don_Houston]

Good photo of the e-brake trunnion position behind the cylinder. I did get the drums on yesterday after trial and error of small up and down and side to side with the shoes. This seems like a very tight fit to me (never done any brake work before), but we shall see when I am ready to adjust the brakes.

The photo's in the link above also show the correct and incorrect position of the top spring to avoid the rubber part of the cylinder. I have no idea which way mine are now that I have the drums on, but it seems as though the straight section of my spring is longer that the one in the photo. I will check when I have to take the drum off.

 

[hondo402000]

good post on the brakes, especially on those darned locking pieces, I have one wheel cylinder to replace thats leaking,( brand new one at that)
I got informed that you put the wheel cylinder thru the back plate, install the outer most clip(the small one) on first, then work the E brake part in its respective holder on the wheelcylinder , then put the inner most clip on second and then slide the center clip in between the inner and out clip and push it in till is locks them all together, I will find out this weekend if that works with out bending anything. Plus I ordered a new hard line that come out of the wheel cylinder and 2 replacement SS lines too

Hondo

 

[hondo402000]

and if you are wondering, the front brake shoe goes in place, leave the back shoe kind of hanging in place but dont put it in the bottom slot or the top, work the springs on and then pry the back shoe in to place, you will never get the springs on with the shoes in place

Hondo

 

[TR3driver]

I got informed that you put the wheel cylinder thru the back plate, install the outer most clip(the small one) on first, then work the E brake part in its respective holder on the wheelcylinder , then put the inner most clip on second

No, you install the outermost and innermost clips first (both with the open side pointing way from the handbrake lever and then install the lever. The missing clip leaves just enough slack to force the pins under the edge of the cylinder. Then tap the center clip into place, open end towards the lever.

I find that the easiest way (for me anyway) to install the shoes is to install the two return springs to the shoes first, then hold a shoe in each hand (keeping the springs tight so they don't fall out) while sliding the shoe/spring assembly over the wheel hub. Put the leading shoe over the handbrake lever and into it's slot in the piston, then the trailing shoe into the slot on the back of the cylinder. Without the upper spring stretched, that can easily be done by hand. If necessary, you can hold the upper spring in place with a finger and move the tops of the shoes closer together, to get a little extra clearance at the cylinder. Then I put one shoe into it's slot in the adjuster, and use a prybar or screwdriver to lever the other shoe into place. Only takes a few seconds, less time than it took me to type this.

 

[TR6BobNF]

Don:
Here's a pic I took before I pulled it all apart to sandblast, paint and replace wheel cylinders. The slot is just visible as that small silver tab on the upper left protruding from the rubber boot along with the parking brake lever inserted from the back and through the shoe. Are you certain you have new TR6 wheel cylinders? If I recall correctly you can rotate the slot in the cylinder to align with the shoe. Good luck!