TR2/3/3A TR3 post 60000, water pump

[Tinkerman]

Afternoon all:

How can I tell if my water pump is ok or not. I have two, one with the zerk fitting and bronze impeller and the other without and a steel impeller. One is new (steel one) other is older. How can I tell if the older one is still good?

Thanks, Tinkerman

 

[PeterK]

Good question. I have several in a box and would like to know too.

If one is on the car and not leaking, squeaking, and the shaft doesn't feel loose, then probably OK. You'll have to remove the belt to check for play.

Keep the one with the grease fitting. I've heard that they may be valueable to purists if you can find a rebuilder. Some even go to the extent of drilling a hole on a new pump and putting in a dummy fitting for concours points.

 

[Geo Hahn]

When I have had a pump fail I recall it didn't feel right even when just turned by hand after being removed from the engine. Harder to tell is how close to failure an old pump is.

I have one with the zerk and another that I just took the threads off of an old zerk & JBWelded it to thst boss on the pump. Hard to tell which is which until you try to grease the dummy.

 

[Lou Metelko]

Dick:

The same water pump will fit and function on every TR from the first TR2 to the last TR4A. My only water pump failures (3 times) were the snapping off of the stud at the front of the pump. Finally solved that by drilling and tapping the center shaft. Speaking of water pumps, don't believe the hog wash about the six vane Heavy Duty pumps being better! Yes, I do have a dummy grease zerk on both cars!

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

 

[prb51]

When the pump begins to fail (bearing failure) it's usually due to a seal starting to go and coolant contaminating the bearing area. You'll get coolant leaking from the weep hole, noise, and imbalanced fan belt pulley. You will be able to feel the play in the shaft when the belt is loose.
The original assemblies are a tad smaller and are rebuildable with newer sealed bearings but allow you to retain the zerk for looks.

 

[prb51]

Lou,
"don't believe the hog wash about the six vane Heavy Duty pumps being better!"
Interesting. I'd of thought it would do a better job. Did you try one or just others experience? What did you/they note when using the six vane?

 

[PeterK]

According to Roger Williams, How to Improve TR2-4A books, the 4-vane cavitates at high rpm and "is not up to the job."
OTOH the "six profiled blades are designed to eliminate cavitating." So I guess it depends on how much you push your engine. If you have a higher lift cam which moves the power band higher, and thus requiring you keep the revs up a bit more to stay in the power band, the marginal difference in price for a 6-vane impeller is a no brainer. We all have our opinions.

 

[pa297pass]

Hi all:

Does anyone know where to get one of the 6-vane water pumps for a four cylinder TR?

I have to replace the one on the 4 and would like to try one of the "higher performance" ones.

Thanks.

Matt

 

[Twosheds]

Ken Gillanders at British Frame and Engine lists them:

https://www.britishframeandengine.com/parts1.html

$140.

I've always had good experience with Ken's parts.

 

[PeterK]

I got mine at https://www.lbcarco.com Moss p/n 835-071 uprated water pump $106.21

the one on the right //mysite.verizon.net/kentech0822/triumph/pumps/pumps_4vs6vane.jpg

 

[RonMacPherson]

Wow, who'd a thought, you take the vanes and angle them in the direction of flow, you add more of them to keep "pockets" from forming and this makes a product that is not any better?


Guess MB, GM, Honda, Toyota and all the aftermarket high performance pump people did not do their hydrodynamic research properly. Not trying to be sarcastic, just a little attempt at humor here.

Lou, I think someone told you wrong.

6 vane pumps ARE better, just by basic design.