Sorry to bring back this old thread. I just found the e-mail I had received from Steve Hedke a few years ago when I was considering the conversion in my TR6. After reading about it I decided against the conversion.
Here's the essence of it, Tom:
The conversion was done with a Triumph 2000 sedan parts car. The 2.0 liter 6 is mounted in the car at an angle, canted I believe 15 degrees to the right. There is a steel adapter plate that bolts to the back of the engine where the bellhousing attaches. This mounts the Borg Warner A35 tranny flat in the car while the engine is tilted. This is a key piece.
The oil pan for the automatic is much wider than the bottom of the manual transmission, and the chassis is not designed to accommodate it. When you bolt that steel plate to the TR6 block, it cants the transmission at a 15 degree angle. This is necessary to clear the frame rails.
You'll also need to take the flex plate off the 2000 (where the converter bolts to) and fabricate a spacer for the back of the crankshaft so that the ring gear aligns with the starter. As I recall it's just under 1". The 2000 automatic crankshaft has this extension cast into it.
The next step is to fabricate the rear mount. Since the trans is sitting at an angle this is a bit tricky. I did it with a u-bolt right on the tail housing of the trans.
Once that's done you'll need a fiberglass transmission tunnel. The shifter comes from the 2000 donor car, and is mounted to the tunnel itself (that's why you need the plastic one). The side of the tunnel (right I believe) has to be modified to clear the pan, and a door is cut into it to attach the shifter to the trans. We tried hooking up the kickdown cable but that's tricky. We gave up and simply downshifted the trans manually.
The A35 is air cooled so no cooler lines or additional radiator are necessary.
However: since you no longer have compression braking aavailable to slow the car down, you'll need to upgrade the front brakes. I recommend cutting a hole in each side of the front valence with a hole saw to allow air to get on the rotors directly. And use the slotted and drilled rotors. This is critical: we smoked the brakes a few times on downhill runs.
The shifting into gear from neutral is hard on the rear diff mounts too. If you haven't reinforced those studs you'll need to when fitting the auto trans.
The car drove fine with the auto box, it was just about as fast. But it does eat gas.
The car now belongs to a collector of TR6's in Santa Barbara. But you can see it on most Moss catalogs and ads: it's the french blue with hardtop sitting on a hillside. The only external difference was that we removed the air dam for more air flow.
Steve Hedke