Sound/heat insulation with foil---which way??

[ALLAN]

Some people say that the foil should go down and others say the foil goes up. Which way should it go. In my way of thinking the foil should go down to help reflect the heat.??

 

[Guest]

Beware, foil placed against a painted or otherwise finished surface will scratch the dickens out of the finish and the result will be rust ! It might be more effective to place the foil against the surface but the end result can spell disaster.



Bill

 

[TR674]

Alan
In the building trade, foil backed insulation always has the 'shiny' side facing away from metal, coated or otherwise. The contact will be disasterous!
Regards
Craig

 

[Paul Slice]

The insulation will work fine foil up. Be sure to put a couple of layers on the drivers side floor and where your leg and knee rest against the tunnel. I have done this on all my British cars and the reduction in heat and noise is amazing /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif.


Paul

 

[Guest]

Dang, Paul. That is very impressive. My only concern is the way you have that interior sealed up tight, you've managed to keep heat out of the interior but what about the ability of the trapped ambient moisture to dry out or otherwise be able to check for the rust monster. I sealed in a perfectly good set of floorboards on my TR6 and found 6 months later that they had been ruined. New Heritage floor boards were needed.

I am not being critical, just concerned.

Bill

 

[trfourtune]

hi,
what's the best source for that stuff?
rob

 

[Paul Slice]

Rob,

I have used fatmat https://cgi.ebay.com/50-sq-ft-FATMAT-XTRE...1QQcmdZViewItem on the last 3 cars that I have done and it works great. It is much cheaper than Dynamat and is the same basic product. 50 feet should do the adverage British car. It does not give off the tar smell that the cheaper Home depot type products do when they get hot.

Bill,

I have never considered the rust potential of putting the stuff down, but after using a countertop roller and heat gun to install it hopefully there are no void areas for the moisture to get under. I used it around 10 years ago in my 66 Mustang and the floor pans still look good (from below).

Something to ponder though, and I will keep an eye out for the rust worm.

When doing my Triumphs with their removable tranny tunnels, I used a box cutter to score around the tunnel to facilitate easier removal in the future. I also put a layer on the under side of the ABS tranny tunnel, which has not come loose and the foil side is effectively facing the engine and transmission.


hope this helps,
Paul



here is the 80 Spitfire during its interior restoration.

 

[milemarker60]

Another option to consider is Rhino Lining. I had the complete interior/trunk, inner wheel wells (not under the hood but inside of the wings) and bottom of my TR6 tub shot with Rhino and will have the rockers done once the fenders are installed. Excellent heat and sound insullation properties and removes that potential for voids for water to be trapped. Granted it will add a little weight but that didn't bother me. Very popular with the muscle car and hot rod crowd. I paid $400 to have it done after media blasting and epoxy prime.

Rhino is the product of choice for this type of use as it remains slightly elastic and can be removed if necessary unlike Line-X and other products out there. The stuff can be painted as well but I'm leaving mine as is.