• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Does this sound like fuel pump problem?

Share this page

T

TuffTR250

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
I have not been able to drive my TR3 for about a month. Today I tried to start it and it would not start. I pumped the fuel pump lever a bunch of times but I could not feel any pressure. I have about 1/2 tank of gas. I then took the filters off and squirted gas into both carbs. It would start immediately and run for several seconds and then stop. I did that about 4 times, fully chocking it each time. Each time I put gas in the carbs it would start but then die. I put on a new fuel pump some time in 2012. I have been using both non-ethanol and ethanol gas. I am thinking the fuel pump has failed. Agreement, or could the problem be something else? Thank you!
Bob
 
Could be. Maybe. Possibly.

Might just be the coil (joke).

However, rotten rubber hose in the line from tank to pump.
Rotten metal pipe in same area.
Pickup tube plugged or rotted.

But, yeah, after all that it could be the pump (or the coil).

You need to have almost perfect suction. Even small holes in lines, loose clamps on old hardened rubber hoses, and loose diaphragm screws. Link to diaphragm broken.

Disconnect both sides of the pump. Drop a hose from suction side to gas can. Pump manual prime lever, see what comes out the pressure side.

Then work back towards the tank.
 
You also get no pressure at the manual lever if the feed to the float bowls is blocked. That's the first thing I would check, as I've seen it several times. Some gas seems to form a hard deposit when it dries (instead of the old varnish), which can glue the float valves shut.
 
TR3driver said:
You also get no pressure at the manual lever if the feed to the float bowls is blocked. That's the first thing I would check, as I've seen it several times. Some gas seems to form a hard deposit when it dries (instead of the old varnish), which can glue the float valves shut.
Click to expand...

Except:
" I then took the filters off and squirted gas into both carbs. It would start immediately and run for several seconds and then stop. I did that about 4 times,"
We do know the inlets to the carbs aren't blocked.
We also know there is fuel in the tank:
"I have about 1/2 tank of gas."

So, both carbs are blocked, both floats stuck "up", both needles bad......hard to figure.
 
I took the fuel line off right in front of the carbs and pumped the fuel pump lever and no gas came out of the gas line. BTW, the sediment bowl on the fuel pump is clean, no sediment. I did see a bit of sediment in the gas when I took the metal fuel filter off and poured the gas out of the "in" outlet of the fuel filter. The gas coming out of the "out" outlet of the filter did not have any sediment. I put a new fuel filter on anyway but it did not help.
Bob
 
TOC said:
Except:
" I then took the filters off and squirted gas into both carbs. It would start immediately and run for several seconds and then stop. I did that about 4 times,"
We do know the inlets to the carbs aren't blocked.
Click to expand...
I interpreted that to mean he squirted gas into the air intake (throats) rather than into the float bowls. If so, the test, while very informative, doesn't prove there is fuel in the bowls or that it is getting through the jets into the throats.

We also know there is fuel in the tank:
"I have about 1/2 tank of gas."
Click to expand...

Not really relevant, just a humorous story: the other day, a friend decided the fuel pump in his pickup must be bad. Cut a hole in the bed rather than deal with dropping the tank (fuel pump lives in the tank on that model, like most modern cars & trucks). Replaced the fuel pump; still wouldn't run. Took the new pump back out, and finally noticed that it was bone dry!

Problem all along was a stuck fuel sender. Rather than the 3/4 shown on the gauge, the tank was dry. Added some fuel, started right up.
 
Have you checked to see if fuel is reaching the fuel pump from the tank?
You could also make up a small, temporary fuel supply attached to the pump and check that the pump is OK.
 
Disconnect the fuel line to the tank right before the pump. If fuel runs out, then chances are the pump is bad. If no fuel runs out, you have a blocked line to the tank.
 
I have a fuel shutoff valve right before the fuel filter then a short hose runs from the filter to the pipe going to the fuel pump. When I disconnected the fuel filter at the "IN" end and turned on the shutoff valve, the gas flowed freely out of the pipe coming from the fuel tank. Thanks for all the suggestions!
Bob
 
Thanks John. I agree...fuel pump. When I was looking for a replacement fuel filter in my stuff I ran across the "emergency" electric fuel pump that I bought off the internet at least a year ago. I think it was Geo Hahn who posted the recomendation back then. I had forgotten I had that. So today I hooked it up and sure enough, the car started right up and ran good. I only bypassed the fuel pump, nothing else. I would not want to drive very much with it since I've attached it to electric with aligator clips. At least I can run the engine until I can get a new mechanical fuel pump and get it installed. I appreciate the help and ideas from everyone!!!
Bob
 
Back
Top