First, I started with a standard issue "faux" roll bar that I had installed previously in the car (Vicky Brit). Took it out and welded a piece of 1/2" square steel bar across the bottom. Then, I took a some 1/8" x 3/4" steel strap and carefully bent it to follow the inside curve of the roll bar and along the top edge of the 1/2" bar. This was the tough part because bending steel on itself isn't easy. Lots of heating with a MAPP gas torch and a stout maul. Ruined more than a few pieces. The bottom piece I just used a 3/4" "L" angle iron. I tacked every 2" all the way around, ground back my welds and used Bondo to dress it all out. JC Whitney has a selection of rubber window glass mounting strips available. I chose their "H" shaped strip similar to the same strip that holds the Triumph windshield in place. It uses a plastic chrome strip to tighten up the grip. Glass shop cut me a piece of Triplex safety glass to match a template I made out of cardboard that I eyeballed to fit within the new frame, taking the thickness of the rubber into consideration. It worked first time! I then took some 16 gauge sheet steel and formed it to fit around the LED light (NAPA). Inset the light inside this "steel tunnel" and welded a backing plate for the light. Drilled through the backing plate and into the roll bar then fished the wire down though the roll bar to the base where the wires exited to be tied into the harness. Bondoed the housing as well. Sanded the whole thing down, and rattle canned the semi-flat finish (Krylon). I call this a "faux" roll bar because as we all know, it is just for looks. Might give a modicum of protection in the event of a, heaven forbid, rollover. I now have a place to mount my shotgun in my rear window and am looking to find a "P*** On MG" decal.
Bill