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Rear shock / suspension question?

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
Offline
I just installed new front shocks, stabilizer links and sway bar bushings on my TR6. I added a very small amount of oil to each of the rear lever shocks also.

The front end now rides smooth as silk and all steering wheel wobble over bumps is gone.

However, the rear end now feels like I'm on metal to metal over a bump. It seems as though there is no cushion to a shock/bump at all back there. Nothing is loose or looks worn, at least as far as I can see.

Any suggestions short of losing weight, cause I ain't goin on no diet!

Paul
 

Alan_Myers

Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hi Paul,

One possibility is the sliding joints on the rear axles are not free and sliding as they should.

How heavy oil did you put in the rear shocks?

Did you check the rear shocks for good movement, nice smooth resistance throughout the travel?

If the rear shocks are shot, it's possible they are fully "bound up", have very little travel or are very stiff.

Were the rear springs ever changed? There are some "heavy duty" competition springs available, that are pretty harsh.

Does the car "squat" a lot? If so the rear springs might have sagged or gone soft to the point there is minimal travel.

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L
 
OP
Brosky

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
Offline
I used Armstrong oil for the shocks from TRF.
I did not disconnect them to check. That's on the list to do.
Original rear springs, no squat, 54,000 miles.
Front end rattled and banged so much that I never noticed the rear issues.
I'll check the travel or as we used to call it, "jounce" up and down on the rear. The front is fine now, so the rear will be more noticeable.

Paul
 

Andy Blackley

Jedi Trainee
Country flag
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Metal to metal contact may mean your rebound rubbers have gone missing.
 
OP
Brosky

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
Offline
Oh.....good thought. I haven't looked at that yet. On my list for the weekend!

Thanks,

Paul
 

John_Mc

Jedi Knight
Country flag
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Just out of curiousity, Paul, did you replace bushings with rubber or one of the higher tech materials? I need to replace a lot of suspension rubber on my car and I'm looking for a tight yet smooth ride. If the rubber does the job, I understand it makes for a less harsh ride which sounds appealing to me. I bought the TRF suspension magic kit, but have yet to dig into it. Any other opinions?
 

Simon TR4a

Jedi Knight
Offline
John, I have replaced the upper A arm bushings with polyurethane, also the trailing arm bushings, sway bar bushings and diff mounts. I have not noticed any increase in harshness, and they last extremely well; I am rebuilding the car right now so purchased new bushings for the A arms, but on taking out the 10 year old ones found they were dirty but like new. I may change the lowers before putting things back together.
Simon.
 

Alan_Myers

Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hi John,

Polyurethane bushings will outlast rubber by a long shot. The original rubber bushings probably were actually worn out within a year or two from new. Depending upon their quality, replacement rubber bushings might be shot in even less time.

But you are right to be concerned, urethane can make for a harsher ride and more road noise. You might not know that there are different "durometer" or hardness of urethane bushings available. Some are close to the original rubber in terms of ride, but will still last a good deal longer. Harder urethane bushings will wear longer and give even better control, but more compromise on ride and noise.

Another consideration, rubber or softer urethane bushings are more forgiving of other shortcomings in the suspension and steering. Harder bushings give better overall control and more precise handling, but looseness, wear or misalignment elsewhere will be more obvious.

I've converted all the rubber bushings on my TR4 to slilghtly harder urethane, with the exception of the front sway bar end links. Using rubber there allows a little bit of suspension travel before the sway bar begins to take effect, and there is some possible "adjustment" that can be made by compressing the rubber with the mounting bolts. A

t the rear, I have new, but original lever shock links (with rubber bushings in both ends) that I am considering changing for a more rigid type, so the shock is more effective all the time. The car is not back on the road and I will wait until it's been through a few corners before deciding if I want to tweak the suspension these areas and make more changes.

BTW, my "daily driver" Land Rover is also getting a full set of urethane bushings, in a softer grade that are close to the hardness of the original rubber type.

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L
 
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