Panhard Rod for Sprite

[aeronca65t]

I was asked about my self-built panhard rod a while ago. These aren't great pictures, but maybe you'll get the idea. The bar (red pipe) was modeled after a "Peter May" unit. It's been working fine for around 3 years.

Below--Right side of the car from the rear:The bar was built out of ordinary plumbing-grade steel tube. I got rod ends from Summit Racing and threaded the bar so that a rod would thread into each side. I built a split aluminum block that clamped around the right side of the rear axle. The block has a mounting stud for the right side of the bar. The arrow is pointing to it. Even though the block is clamped tightly to the axle (and I used adhesive) it tended to "walk" radially around the axle. I made a "temporary" repair using a short length of chain that connects one of the clamp bolts to the leaf sping U-bolts. Eventually I'll do a more elegant repair...maybe. You can also see the right-side tube shock and the battery box in front of it.Takes about 90 minutes to change the battery, but it's nice and low for better CG. There's also a fuel pump near the battery (normal 1500 cars have a mech. pump). The fuel cell is 8 gallon ATL.

Below--Left side of car from the rear: The yellow arrow is pointing to the pivot bolt for the left side of the panhard rod. The tripod (red tubes) that holds the left side of the bar to the frame is built form steel tube and angle-steel. When the car is at rest on the ground (not jacked up) the panhard rod should be about parallel to the rear axle from the rear view and the top view. The longer the panhard rod (within practical limits) the better. I had a 5/8" sway bar on the rear at one point, but it made the car handle creepy, so I pulled it back off (none of the other Sprites I race have a rear sway bar). Tires are Yoko A032R soft-compound/shaved. I have two extra leaf springs added and spacer blocks between the axle and leaf-spring to lower the car.