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BT7 Panhard Rod

Healey Nut

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So one end of the Panhard rod connects to the driver's side rear axle. Where does the other end go?

Pics anyone, pls?
 

John Turney

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There should be a bracket on the right side frame rail with a hole. It is on top and at the outside edge of the rail.
 
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Healey Nut

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There should be a bracket on the right side frame rail with a hole. It is on top and at the outside edge of the rail.
Ah ha , mystery solved I have a Jule superstructure so no bracket on the frame rail so no panhard rod for me .
Anyone need a panhard rod and axle bracket with all new bushings etc ?
Its years since I got this superstructure from Marty at Jule and I vaguely remember him saying something about not needing the panhard rod due to his frame design and spring setup .
Anyone else out there with a BT7 and Jule frame etc care to chime in ?
 

DerekJ

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Martys frames are based on a BJ8, or they were when I had one. BJ8s don’t have a panhard rod, instead they have two radius arms to locate the axle. Are you planning on installing these?
 
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Healey Nut

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The panhard rod bracket for the chassis rail is available. So I could if I wanted buy the bracket and weld a plate between the base edges then drill tap the chassis rail and bolt it to the chassis rail to create the end connection for the panhard rod .
but it does seem though as if it’s not required with the Jule frame set up .
 

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steveg

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There's a thread here several years ago where Martin discussed the toe-in (IIRC) of the late BJ8 rear springs (and those of his Jule frame) and why in his opinion they made the Panhard rod unnecessary.
 

John Turney

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The panhard rod bracket for the chassis rail is available. So I could if I wanted buy the bracket and weld a plate between the base edges then drill tap the chassis rail and bolt it to the chassis rail to create the end connection for the panhard rod .
but it does seem though as if it’s not required with the Jule frame set up .
The bracket should probably be welded, rather than bolted. In 2019, when repairing my rear axle, I found my Panhard rod was bent (I already replaced it) from excessive side loads.
 

vette

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I believe I remember Marty saying that it was because of the extra strength of the leaf springs he uses that the panhard rod is not necessary. Most American cars did not use them but then most American cars were not called to hang turns like a sports car. I personally believe in a panhard rod as an easy and inexpensive way to laterally locate the rear axle. And for a sporting car I believe the rear axle should be located by more than just the springs.
 

BoyRacer

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I agree. Add the panhard rod. The leaf springs alone are not sufficient to keep the rear end properly located during hard cornering.
 

Bob Hughes

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The panhard rod on my BJ7 was bent so during the rear end refurb, I removed it to straighten it, but found that one end was severely corroded, rather than buy one in, I have made one from stainless steel so that will last longer than the rest of the car :LOL:

Cheers

Bob
 

BoyRacer

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Does anyone know the exact amount of leaf spring toe-in that Marty put in his chassis'? Are the mounting brackets still parallel to the chassis or are they angled to align with the now toed-in leaf springs?
I have done some research in the past on this subject. Some American cars and trucks have had rear leaf spring toe-in. I one case I read about a vehicle that had 3" of toe-in although that is certainly the extreme. Toe-in will resist spring twist and lateral load but It will also increase roll stiffness. Increased rear end roll stiffness will also induce oversteer, also known as looseness....... which can result in spinning out. Installing an anti-roll bar (sway bar) on the rear will also increase roll stiffness and that is why I strongly recommend against it in a big Healey. Other cars that have different handling charactoristics may benefit from a rear bar.
 

vette

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I really can’t answer your question but, I seem to remember a conversation here on BCF that someone believe leaf spring toe in might be about 1/2 inch. I can’t even say whether that was at each spring or was a total for both springs.
I think your description of the suspension tuning is accurate. In my mind I would rather work with a sway bar that relocating the spring perches. Having said that it seems to me that the proper way to move the spring perches would be to align them with the angle of the leafs. Any other way would induce premature wear on the perch bushings . IMO.
 

GregW

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Martin's name here is frameman. I tried searching his posts on my phone but only got the supercharged Healey post. Maybe someone on a desktop can find the toe-in thread with him in the member field of the search.
 
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Healey Nut

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You have to remember that Marty has since passed away so his posts may have been removed .
 
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Healey Nut

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Does anyone know the exact amount of leaf spring toe-in that Marty put in his chassis'? Are the mounting brackets still parallel to the chassis or are they angled to align with the now toed-in leaf springs?
I have done some research in the past on this subject. Some American cars and trucks have had rear leaf spring toe-in. I one case I read about a vehicle that had 3" of toe-in although that is certainly the extreme. Toe-in will resist spring twist and lateral load but It will also increase roll stiffness. Increased rear end roll stiffness will also induce oversteer, also known as looseness....... which can result in spinning out. Installing an anti-roll bar (sway bar) on the rear will also increase roll stiffness and that is why I strongly recommend against it in a big Healey. Other cars that have different handling charactoristics may benefit from a rear bar.
I will take some measurements off my superstructure and report back .
********Just took my boxes over to my shop and a quick measurement tells me the rear springs are parallel to the frame rails .
 
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