Cross Rod Correct Length

[Healey Nut]

Hi All,
So work on the '62 continues. However, I am finding that the front wheel alignment is way off using the front upper cross rod that I have.
It's 19 1/2” long without ball joints. With the front wheels ball-parked at correct alignment the rod appears to be at least an 1” too long.
There's loads of thread in each end so I could just lop off a bit on each end or take it all off the regular thread end and tap deeper to get my thread length back … simple fix, but I want to make sure that that is indeed the case that the rod is possibly from another vehicle.
Anyone care to measure the center cross rod length for me? Just the rod, end to end.
Thanks.

 

[BobHaskell]

The length you have is correct. If you do cut a bit off each end, remember that one end has a left hand thread.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

What is your camber setting? Factory spec is 1deg positive; if you've somehow changed it towards negative it will 'spread' the front wheels outward, potentially to the point of too much toe-out (it should be slightly toed-in). Racers, who often run a lot of negative camber, have a couple solutions, including shortening their cross-rod. The most elegant, IMO, is adjustable side tie-rods--our cars should have had them from the factory--but they aren't readily available (supposedly, select ones from certain Nissans work, but I haven't been able to track them down).

My BN2 has Kilmartin adjustable shock plates, because when we got it it had excessive negative camber (no apparent damage to the chassis). When we adjusted alignment, my father insisted we do it with the center spoke of the steering wheel at vertical; I said it didn't matter since the wheel can be positioned anywhere you wanted it to be (which is true). I bought an at-home alignment kit and started pulling camber closer to zero and, sure enough the center spoke went from 12 o'clock--I'd set it there when I installed a Lempert Wheel--to about 2 o'clock, which I cannot explain because when toe is adjusted it pulls both wheels in or out the same amount. I should never have argued with Dad (at least about mechanical stuff).

 

[Healey Nut]

I have to admit I didn’t check the camber as it’s only adjustable if you have the adjustable plates and bushings .
I chopped about 1/2”off the RH thread and , tapped it deeper , drove the tie rods right in as far as they would go and assembled it on the car . Then I took 2 8ft pieces of uninstrut and tie wrapped them to the spokes to create 2 long straight edges and set the toe in at neutral for now .
The engine is now in the car so I can now tighten and set all the front suspension bushings , trunnions etc etc that you need the weight of the engine for then I will check the camber/toe in etc all over again .
This once I switch the anti roll bar plates side for side as some dummy put them on the wrong sides ……DUHHHHH.

 

[BoyRacer]

You have the steering arms reversed. They are handed. If you reverse them the cross rod will become the correct length and you can get the correct toe in.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Richard, please explain "You have the steering arms reversed. They are handed." Are you referring to the side tie-rods? Moss shows one part#, 2 required for all cars (my BMC parts book is still packed away; we've been unpacking unimportant things, like food, clothing, etc.).

 

[Dandare]

Is Richard referring to the levers (arms) on the idler & steering box?

Danny

 

[Healey Nut]

According to the Moss parts the steering arms are handed . However if you switch them side for side then the taper for the side rods will be upside down so you would have to switch the arms on the steering box and the idler side for side and we know they will only fit in one position on the shaft due to the special spline they have . I also know I did not remove the arm on the idler so I know they were not switched around by mistake .
basically this is how they make a RHD car an LHD car .
But it has no bearing on the centre cross rod length .

 

[Bob_Spidell]

I don't see it (I'm not being confrontational, I'm just confused. Am I confusing 'steering arm' with 'side tie-rod?'):

> 667-550 TIE ROD ASSEMBLY | Moss Motors < ('2 required')

 

[CraigC]

Healey Nut, post a picture of how you have the cross rod and side rods installed. This will either point out the problem or end the discussion of incorrect parts placement.

 

[BoyRacer]

Let me try this again. The steering arms are approximately 9" long and attach to the spindles. They are not straight. They are not identical. They have a slight angle to them. They are "handed". There is a left hand side arm and a right hand side arm. If you install them on the correct sides ..... the arms will angle up. If you install them on the wrong sides ..... the angles will point down. If you have them on the correct sides the tie rod/cross rod will attach to the steering arms and the wheels will be pointing straight ahead. If you have them on the worng side the angles will point down and when you connect the tie rod/cross rod to the steering arms the wheels will be toed out.... a lot.

Also, the tie rod (cross rod) ends (where the nuts attach) should be pointing up when correct. Because you have the steering rods reversed you are now using the wrong holes in the idler arm and pitman arm for your connections.

Just swap steering arms and you will be fine.

Adjusting the length of the tie rod (cross rod) will only change toe-in, nothing else. It has no affect on camber.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Thanks for the explanation; I didn't think of them because they aren't often messed-with (Moss calls them 'levers').

re: "Adjusting the length of the tie rod (cross rod) will only change toe-in, nothing else. It has no affect on camber."

But the opposite is true, no?

 

[Healey Nut]

Ok I see my mistake . I have to switch the steering arms (back of spindle) so they angle up.
change the short cross end position to the back hole in the idler arm and steering box arm .
Finally the centre cross rod should be nuts on top mounted in the front most forward holes in the idler and steering box arms .
more work to do .
Serves me right for buying a car in boxes with nothing marked .

 

[Keoke]

Is Richard referring to the levers (arms) on the idler & steering box?

Danny

Ye and he is correct!

 

[Healey Nut]

All sorted boy racer was 100% correct . Steering arms were reversed etc . All ok now .