• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

Oil leaks continued

mylesw

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Hello

So finally found the time this afternoon to jack the car up and look for the oil leak. from the oil spot pattern on the floor I was expecting to see oil pouring out of the bellhousing of the gearbox. However whilst I was looking all around there, the oil was pouring out of the front of the engine (see attached pic which is after 5 minutes). Couldn't get under there myself for fear of getting oil in my eye, however used the camera to get a good shot. Looks like the oil is coming out between the pulley and the timing cover. So, what's the diagnosis..? How do I go about fixing it..?

Thanks for your help.

Myles
 

Attachments

  • 9942.jpg
    9942.jpg
    50.7 KB · Views: 262
  • 9943.jpg
    9943.jpg
    78.4 KB · Views: 285

LarryK

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Pull radiator, hoses and belts. Remove damper/pully and replace front seal. Most cars can be done insitu, worst case remove timing cover and push out and replace.
 
OP
M

mylesw

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Thanks. Anything else I should do whilst I have the radiator out? How long should this job take start to finish?

Myles
 

bob hughes

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Offline
LarryK forgot to add how difficult it may be to remove the starter dog/nut from the front to release the damper/pully in the first instance, you may need to release the engine mounts and raise the engine a tad to get a spanner onto the nut and then you have the devils own job of releasing it. Have not done it myself, but would be interested on how this is done also. I have made an inertia spanner - one you hit with a sledge hammer, but there is no room to manouver with a hammer insitue, thinks! unless you do it from underneath.

Bob
 

Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
Gold
Offline
There are several ways to get the nut off. It is usually easier to jack up the front of the engine to get free access to the nut. (Motor mounts disconnected.) It depends on how much clearance is needed.

A 1 11/16" or 43mm wrench is needed.

A socket with long breaker bar can be braced against the frame & the starter energized to unscrew the nut. (Somewhat hazardous).

A "striking wrench" can be used with a large hammer. You can see an example here. You may need an offset model:
https://www.newmantools.com/wrenches/ozatfsw.htm

An impact wrench & socket is quite easy.

Which ever you do, make sure that the nut is replaced very tightly. A bit of Blue Loctite is good insurance.
D
 

zblu

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
Have used a blocker which I put on the ring gear via the starter motor orifice, locks the ring gear from moving during remove/install
 

Stretch

Jedi Trainee
Offline
You should look closely to be sure it's the oil seal. I thought I had a significant front oil seal leak. When I looked closer it was a loose bolt at the bottom of the timing cover. I was amazed that it leaked so much.
 

steveg

Yoda
Gold
Country flag
Offline
From the picture, you're missing the oval washers between the bolt heads and the oil pan. There are similar washers between the timing cover and the front plate.

My car leaks similarly, but less, between the timing cover and front plate. Tightening the bolts reduced the flow a little, but not much.
 
OP
M

mylesw

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
OK, so here I am with the radiator out, fan and belts removed. Engine jacked up, socket on the end of the nut. Not enough space to get my impact wrench on the end of the socket. Now, I thought that if I put the car in gear and had the wife engage the brakes, I would be able to use a breaker bar to undo the nut. However when I turn the breaker bar the pulley turns so I guess the rear brakes aren't strong enough to resist. Also tried the starter motor method but no joy there either. Any more suggestions about how I get this nut off...? By the way, I am assuming the nut has a regular thread..??

Thanks

Myles
 
B

BUNDYRUM

Guest
Guest
Offline
Hello mylesw, yes the thread on the nut is a "regular" one, nothing fancy there.

As Dave said you may have to use a large hammer on the breaker bar as it will need the shock treatment of a good hard hit.

Good luck.

bundyrum.
 

Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
Gold
Offline
As I mentioned earlier, this wrench or the offset version will remove any nut. Much more solid than a breaker bar. Attached.

Remember when you put the nut back on it needs to be as tight as it was before removing.
D
 

Attachments

  • 10049.jpg
    10049.jpg
    85.6 KB · Views: 255
OP
M

mylesw

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Thanks for continuing advice, nut and pulleys etc are now off. When I went to continue work on the car this afternoon the nut was already loose...must have loosened it last night with the "starter method" without realizing it. Anyway, I'm now staring at the timing cover. It appears to me that I have to remove the timing cover to get the seal out, although LarryK seems to infer it can be done it situ. Any more advice on this? Thanks for helping me out.

Myles
 
B

BUNDYRUM

Guest
Guest
Offline
mylesw, the timing cover comes right off after removing the bolts.

It's easier to replace the seal with it off and it gives you the chance to look at the timing chain/sprockets/tensioner also.

Look at the foot of the tensioner to see if there are any grooves in it where it has been rubbing on the chain.

Before removing anything check to see if there is any free play in the chain as well as how far the tensioner is out of it's housing.

Also look at the sprockets to see if the tips of the teeth are pointed or if they have a flat on the outside diameter, oh yes see if all the teeth are there on both sprockets. They should have a small flat on the tips.

While you are at this stage I would replace them depending on the above.



Dave. That is a great looking tool where are they available from?.

bundyrum.
 
B

BUNDYRUM

Guest
Guest
Offline
Dave. I didn't go back and look at your previous post where you gave the site for the "OZAT striking wrench". Now I see it, thanks.

bundyrum.
 

bob hughes

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Offline
Again an untried solution to holding the crank whilst getting the nut off. Un-tried by me that is.

Bend an old inlet valve ( by heating ) so that it can be used to lock in against the starter ring, I think the leg is passed through a hole in the back plate and the head of the valve jams into the teeth of the ring. Our Healey specialist has one and he says that it works a treat

Bob
 
OP
M

mylesw

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
All

Thanks for your help with this. Car is back together and running fine, oil leaks also seem to down considerable but not taken the car for a long trip yet. Good thing I removed the timing cover in the end as this is what I found...!

Myles
 

Attachments

  • 10497.jpg
    10497.jpg
    48 KB · Views: 123
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
K TR2/3/3A Oil leaks at two front cylinder head studs? Triumph 3
R TR2/3/3A Oil Leaks Triumph 24
Nelson Oil leaks again Spridgets 1
D Oil leaks Spridgets 22
lbcspinners A- H Frog E: no more Bugeye oil leaks! Austin Healey 4
M PCV and oil leaks Austin Healey 53
T external sealant for oil leaks Spridgets 6
warwick-steve Oil Leaks - What is normal/typical? Austin Healey 4
M Can synthetic oil be cause of leaks? Spridgets 5
T Oil leaks under carb are - tappet inspection plate Spridgets 6
T sealing oil leaks in a horizontal joint Spridgets 6
rlich8 Introduction/Oil Leaks Triumph 14
K Oil Leaks! Triumph 10
RJS Crankcase Pressurization and Oil Leaks Triumph 11
T OIl Pan, no leaks Triumph 18
M new engine rebuild, new type oil seal and LEAKS ?? Triumph 15
T oil leaks Triumph 32
M Oil Leaks Again Austin Healey 7
M Oil Leaks Austin Healey 17
E T-Series Oil pipe leaks on '50 TD-help! MG 7
M Common engine oil leaks Austin Healey 16
chrisc Wedge TR8 Oil Leaks Triumph 2
Atrus Let's talk oil leaks ;-] Spridgets 16
G 1967 Midget rear end leaks oil Spridgets 12
Woodie starter works,, but now oil LEAKS !! Spridgets 13
S British cars and oil leaks explained!!! MG 2
G Carb oil leaks out MG 8
R For Sale 1960 Healey BN7 Oil Pan For Sale Austin Healey Classifieds 0
Carlbanan56 MGB MGB oil consumption MG 5
1955TR2 TR2/3/3A TR2/3 Oil Leak Where Oil Sending Pipe Connects to the Block Triumph 8
Jim_Gruber Correct Transmission Oil for Datsun 210 5-speed Spridgets 1
af3683 TR2/3/3A Recommended Oil Filter Cartridge for Purolator Triumph 8
R oil pressure Spridgets 2
RickPA Overdrive Oil Pressure Austin Healey 8
6 Valve Oil Seals Spridgets 10
RJS TR4/4A Smiths Oil Temp Gauge Triumph 11
J MGB Oil Pressure Gauge Gives Constant Reading -- Doesn't Seem Right MG 15
Lotuswins Dry Spin-On Oil Filter Austin Healey 14
Todd78d Oil Spridgets 6
Erica General MG Oil Drain Valve -- mine is an MGB, but they have others MG 3
G Right-Side Shock Weeping Oil Austin Healey 1
scottkilpatrick TR4/4A Gear oil and choke question Triumph 4
D TR2/3/3A cylinder head oil plug bolt size Triumph 6
G High Oil Pressure Austin Healey 2
T Spin-On Oil Filters for Cars with a Brake Servo Austin Healey 3
Bayless What oil for Datsun 5 speed? Spridgets 7
T Spin-On Oil Filters Anti-Drain Back Valves Austin Healey 0
T Spin-On Oil Filters Austin Healey 1
K TR2/3/3A Old school penetrating oil? Triumph 24
R TR6 question re: Engine Oil Triumph 3

Similar threads

Top