• Hi Guest! Being a Paying Supporter is NOT a requirement to participate at BCF. However, subscribing will help ensure we can continue to serve the LBC community for years to come. If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource...Please consider supporting us by **Upgrading**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this banner)
Tips
Tips

1967 Midget rear end leaks oil

Gunner

Senior Member
Offline
My 1967 Midget started leaking rear end fluid onto my wire wheels a few weeks ago. Not a bad leak... but just not right. I removed drum, large retaining bolt and lock washer, pulled the hub and axle... complete clean up... etc. The paper gasket looks new as do the brakes, drums, rubber O-Ring and bearings and axle seal. What did I miss? the axle fluid appears to be leaking from the center of my rear hub where the knock off tightens. Can fluid leak out the center of the hub?
Thanks
Gunner
 

drooartz

Moderator
Staff member
Gold
Country flag
Offline
No answer for you, but I'm curious as to the cure myself. Tunebug's got this problem as well, though I've got disk wheels.
 

drooartz

Moderator
Staff member
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Haven't checked that closely yet, but the wheel and rear 1/4 panel show oil/grease marks.
 

Sarastro

Obi Wan
Gold
Country flag
Online
There's an oil seal and that strange o-ring/gasket combination. (I say it's strange because, in any ordinary situation, one or the other would be enough, no need for both.) If all these are holding, the sucka just doesn't leak. So, one of these has to be leaking. All three of them won't cost you much, so I'd just replace all three. AND, especially, check the mating surfaces to make sure they're smooth, flat, and unscratched. Especially where the oil seal contacts the rear axle body--this should be really smooth. The oil seal also has to be pressed into the hub correctly; if it's cocked or anything like that, it may not seal properly. Finally, the AH service manual makes a big deal over the fact that the gasket must be at least 10 mils thick. If someone made one of these by hand, it might not be right. Frankly, I suspect that this gasket does the real job of sealing; I can't imagine why the o-ring is there at all (but I suspect someone will tell me!) so, of the two, this is the guy to worry about.

Given that the oil is coming out of the center of the hub, I'd suspect the gasket. Be sure the mating surfaces are smooth, clean, unscratched, and flat. (Check flatness with a steel ruler.) If it were coming out the back, probably the oil seal. Still, I'd replace all three.
 
Offline
Leaking hubs on a race car is always a problem, here's my advice since I done it what seems like a thousands times with diff gearing changes and all. Clean everyhtin really good, use a solvent like brake clean, repalce the o-ring use Black RTV, you use the gasket if you want but we don't use them on the race cars just the o-ring and black RTV. Make sure you bolt a wheel back on to give everything a good 360 degree seal and let it all set 24 hours if you can for the silicone to cure before you refill the rear end with dope. If you pull the hub and replace the seat there, make sure you clean the housing thread for the hub nut with solvent, air blow dry, clean the nut the same way, use red lock lite and torque to the factory torque, 140 ft. pounds. Remember the left side hub nut is left hand threads and the right side right hand threads.
 
Offline
Don't all these rear end housings have vents? Would a clogged vent contribute to the leak?
 

aeronca65t

Great Pumpkin
Offline
I do exactly as Hap says. It is your best bet, but with these cars, it is still no guarantee. I've owned many Spridgets and ALL of them leaked (or at least seeped a bit) onto the rear drums.
Unless you want to re-engineer things, it's a matter of reducing it to a manageable level.
The picture below shows the details of a Spridget rear.
Much of the leakage can be reduced by a new large O-ring (#37). I use "Hylomar" sealant rather than the paper gasket (#35).

SPM-027.gif
 
OP
G

Gunner

Senior Member
Offline
Thanks, all
I worked on the blasted thing all weekend when it was sunny and seventy.. now it's freezing cold and I'm old...
I'll order the new seals and O-rings and gaskets and bearings... then replace everything when the weather is suitable.

Gunner
 

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
Country flag
Offline
That's a big 10-4 on the cold. North Florida here.
Berrrrrr.
 

drooartz

Moderator
Staff member
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Gunner said:
now it's freezing cold and I'm old...

It's freezing cold here, and I'm young. I'm still not working out in the garage. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 

JerryB

Jedi Warrior
Offline
When you get everything off the housing, check the seal surface on the housing end.

It should be somewhat pit and rust free. The seal lip has to have a nice smooth surface for the hub seal to ride on.

Next you can get a sealed both side bearing for the hub. That will help limit diff lube from migrating thru the bearing and collecting and overwheming the hub seal. Using the open or sealed bearing, it MUST have a SLIGHT pressure to be put into the hub. If the bearing falls out, there is too much hub wear in the hub bore. When installing the hub seal , pack the inside of the seal lip with chasis grease and a light smear on the seal surface on the housing when installing the hub.

The hub end play is set by the gasket thickness. Use too thick of a gasket and you will have a floppy hub and the hub bore will pound out. The gaskets Moss sells are TOO thick. .010" thick is what you want (make your own). As Hap sez , I also just use the o-ring with Hylomar tho, and no gasket. But we use double bearing hubs and set the end play elsewhere (at least I do). Another trick I do is to use selective diameter (thickness fit) 1" i.d. o-rings slid over the axle shaft that barely contacts the i.d. taper on the hub when all is installed. This helps keep the lube in the axle tubes and out of the hubs.

In hard corners the lube runs from the banjo and packs up the tube(s) ...the housing tubes are straight and the lube doesnt drain back to the banjo. Way too much lube gets in the hub pocket. Also dont use synthetic gear lube....it makes a small leak big. 90-140 GL4 or 5 for a street car .

Do the drill on the hubs and you will be leak free.
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
Jer 1967 Midget Mark III Seats Spridgets 3
J 1967 Midget Spridgets 31
C Spitfire 1967 Triumph Spitfire Triumph 2
CJ Burton MGB-GT Installing Seat Covers for 1962 - 1967 MGB GT MG 0
A Early 1967 AH Sprite - installing steering column and new directional switch? Spridgets 0
mch979 1967 MGB GT bonnet issue MG 25
6 Seeking 1967 MGB roadster in good driving condition MG Classifieds 0
S For Sale Triumph TR5 Factory Parts Manual on CD/ROM - 1967 to 1968. Triumph Classifieds 0
S For Sale Triumph TR5 Factory Workshop Manual on CD/ROM - 1967 - 1968 Models. Triumph Classifieds 0
S For Sale Aston Martin DBS V8 Factory Workshop Manual – 1967 - 1972 Models. Other British Classifieds 0
S For Sale Sunbeam Tiger Factory Workshop Manuals – 260 and 289 Models - 1964 - 1967 Other British Classifieds 0
S For Sale MGC Factory Workshop Manual on CD/ROM - 1967 - 1969 Models MG Classifieds 0
S For Sale Morris Minor Factory Workshop Manual om CD/ROM - All Models 1959 - 1967 Other British Classifieds 0
S For Sale Austin and Morris MINI Factory Workshop Manual on CD/ROM - All Models 1959 - 1967 Other British Classifieds 0
M MGB 1967 MGB seats MG 9
T 1967 BJ-8 Kick Panels Austin Healey 1
G For Sale 1967 bj8 Austin Healey Classifieds 0
longbridgehealey 1967 sprite earth? Spridgets 12
S New Member 1967 Austin Healey 3000 Austin Healey 5
H 1967[?] Austin FX4 London Taxi Other British Cars 3
D For Sale 1967 Austin Healey 3000 MKIII BJ8 Austin Healey Classifieds 0
jfarris For Sale 1967 TR4A IRS $19,000 Birmingham AL Triumph Classifieds 3
F For Sale Beautiful 1967 Triumph Bonneville T-120 Triumph Classifieds 1
Fortius For Sale AH 3000 MK III Phase II 1967 - Denis Welch Engine & Parts Austin Healey Classifieds 0
G rear wheel studs on my 1967 BJ8 Austin Healey 5
AH67 General TR 1967 Triumphm 2000 no ignition Triumph 5
AH67 General TR 1967 Triumphm 2000 Triumph 7
R Rewiring a 1967 3000 Austin Healey 17
M Overdrive In-Op AH BJ8 1967 Austin Healey 11
Editor_Reid Fuel Gauge for 1967 Sprite Spridgets 4
D Recommendation for new core in original 1967 Austin Healey radiator Austin Healey 5
Q Just Starting Restoration Of 1967 E Type Jaguar OTS Jaguar 13
M TR5/TR250 Where were you on this day in 1967? Triumph 19
Sopwith_Camel was this wire brown in 1967? Jaguar 5
D Need Some Advice on My 1967 BJ8 Austin Healey 8
Marvin Gruber 1967 BJ8 out of the barn Austin Healey 8
Rut TR4/4A 1967 commission number decoding Triumph 16
Rut TR4/4A WTB Original Triumph TR4, 5, 6 and Bentley workshop manual for 1967 TR4a Triumph 10
S 1967 3000 MK3 BJ8 Suspension is so stiff - any chance to improve comfort ? Austin Healey 10
D Another question 1967 BJ8 top installation,metal retaining strip Austin Healey 1
A 1967 BJ8 Coupe based upon the ACME advert Austin Healey 74
Stewart MGB-GT Next Project 1967 GT MG 139
sjuengst 1967 BJ8 on Austin Craigslist Austin Healey 2
G MGB Sick 1967 MGB Engine MG 1
G K&N air filters for 1967 BJ8 Austin Healey 6
C TR4/4A 1967 TR4A IRS motor mounts Triumph 7
Patrick67BJ8 1967 Phase-2 BJ8 - Front parking & turn signal lights alignment Austin Healey 8
Stinger TR4/4A 1967 Triumph TR4-A FOR SALE Triumph 9
Keoke 1967 BJ8 for sale Austin Healey 0
K 1967 Mercedes 240sl Other Cars 3

Similar threads

Top