Let's talk oil leaks ;-]

[Atrus]

Can the oil pan be pulled without pulling the engine? I have a very good oil leak – only leaks during and mostly after the engine is run. The only places I think it could be coming from are the front/rear oil seal, the oil filter canister, or the oil pan. The frame/engine is so crusted in oil and grease because of the leak it’s really difficult to tell.

Seals, I know there are no real seals, so I won’t be doing anything there until I rebuild the engine.

Oil filter, I plan on converting to the modern spin-on style, so if the leak is originating there it should be corrected when I do the upgrade.

Pan, I figure for the $7 or whatever a gasket costs, I’ll order one the next time I order something and swap it out just in case when I do the spring oil change.

I’d like to be able to park at people’s houses (even in the street) without leaving a puddle of oil. I can live with a couple of drops if need be, but I’d love a drip-free car!


While I am on the subject of oil...I remember reading within a post a while back that some people have extended and re-routed the oil line that runs out of the block, around the distributor, and into the oil filter to give more clearance to the distributor hold-down bracket. I’d LOVE to do this as setting the timing is a pain right now. How was this done? Only thing I can think of is to get some copper tubing that’s ID is slightly larger than the stock unit’s OD and splice it in with a braze. I’d appreciate input as to what any of you have done to relocate this line.

 

[Baz]

Can the oil pan be pulled without pulling the engine?

Sure can.
I did it a couple of months ago for no reason. When you put it back on, torque in 2-5 lb increments in a manner similar to a cylinder head.
I had heard that soaking the cork sump gaskets in oil overnight helps the seal, someone else may be able to verify this.
Good luck.

 

[Tullamore]

The one thing about the cork gasket is that you should also find a way to hold it around the oil pan for a few days so that it takes its shape. It can be very frustrating when the gasket naturally wants to bow-in on the long sides.

 

[Atrus]

Ah, OK...is there a non-cork replacement that's easier to use? Also, are the cork gaskets formed so the pan bolts go through them to help hold them in place during assembly?

 

[Jim_Gruber]

You'll also find leaks around the bolt holes where a P.O. overtightened and deformed the pann around the bolt holes hence leaks. 2-5 lbs only. PO thought really tightening this bolts would stop the leak. Those spots you see are oil leaks around the bolt holes. Bugsy leaves a telltale mark everywhere he goes. Tried to fix once and found DPO had literally glued the oil pan in place. Removed all bolts and no manner of prying or pounding, even the rubber mallet trick, while engine is in car will dislodge. Decided better leave well enough alone. Cardboard on the garage floor is cheap and easily replaced. I park on the street to save the neighbor's driveway.

 

[Atrus]

Thanks Jim....I'll have to get under there when the weather breaks and see what's what. This isn't like a few drops after it's been running, it's more like a 4"-6" diameter puddle. I am really hoping it's just the oil filter canister from when I did the oil change on it. Maybe I didn't install it correctly, or it's leaking there. One can hope anyway ;-)

 

[JerryB]

""""""""Thanks Jim....I'll have to get under there when the weather breaks and see what's what. """""""

""""""""frame/engine is so crusted in oil and grease because of the leak it’s really difficult to tell. """""""

I see a pressure washer in your future before you climb under the car again.

 

[Atrus]

Jerry, your magic 8 ball is working well!

What I really need is to fully restore the car and get that engine out of there to be cleaned/rebuilt! Ah, if only time and money were more plentiful. The goasl is to get through this summer cruising in it and enjoying it, and then tearing into it in spring, summer, fall 2008.

 

[Speedy_Pete]

Hi,
I recently had an oil leak on one of my cars. As I had neglected under the bonnet for a while it was fairly dirty so I decided to clean it up to find where it was leaking from. Having pressure washed an engine a few years ago, I was aware that it can screw with the electrics so I consulted my local valeting guy. He recommended Autoglym Machine Cleaner and a radiator paint brush (the long handle one in the DIY store). It was simply a matter of spraying the cleaner on liberally, allowing to soak for a couple minutes, brushing it around with the rad brush (the long handle and tilted head means you can pretty much reach everywhere), giving it a couple more minutes then use a watering can to wash it off. The engine came up like new, the cleaner was safe for all the different materials in the engine bay, and none of the electrics played up! Source of the leak was quickly found and remedied.

 

[Bugeye58]

Glad to see you made it over here, Pete.
Jeff

 

[Speedy_Pete]

Yep, took a few days until I could find some spare time... Just finished an 11 hour shift, which realy dragged as I only got 4 hours sleep last night (was up til 4am watching NASCAR, pesky time difference!)!

 

[bugimike]

The first order of business should be a good cleaning to see where the oil is coming from. That is half the battle!Have you checked the oil-pan drain plug? A new seal ring there will often take care of a leak in that area! If the filter is leaking, that also can be a simple fix, even without changing to the spin-on filter set-up!

 

[jcatnite]

Make sure you don't have a crankcase pressure problem. If your crankcase vent system isn't up to snuff, just a bit of blowby can cause oil to push out of places you didn't even know were joints.
JC

 

[Atrus]

JC, what would I need to check for this. This could quite possibly be the culprit as well. The cannister on the front of the engine behind the fan is just sitting there, nothing connected to the top. Should this run to the intake manifold so there's vacuum on it or anything? I glanced in the Haynes manual a while back, but I remember it wasn't really clear.

What can I check to ensure I have proper ventilation?

 

[Jim_Gruber]

I'll bet that is what your problem is. When I got Bugsy my '68 started for the first time I thought I'd brought home the Exxon Valdez. More oil was pouring out of the engine( a '66 1098 BTW) out of the back seal than you could imangine, no you can imagine as it is happening to you. DPO had the breather plugged up with a piece of hose and SparkPlug. Crankcase vent from Front Cover was plugged with a 3-4" long 3/8 socket extension bar crammed down the vent hose and hanging down along the front of the engine. I replumbed properly including a Gulp Valve off of a '68 and the leak went away. Well not totally just the 5-6 telltale drops every time Bugsy stops but that's nothing for a LBC. Look at a MOSS or VB Catalog and you can see how it is to be plumbed.

Bugsy just came out of hiding under cover and out of the snowbank. On the charger now, temps in the 50's tomorrow and today's rain is washing away some salt. Spring is coming HORRAY.

 

[Speedy_Pete]

Can I just say that if your car is losing as much oil as my Sprite was when I got it, there's a silver lining...
When I got the car on a cradle and started cleaning off all the oil the underside of the car was 98% rust free!! It took a whole heap of rag to mop all the oil off but it looked like new when it was done!
P.S. If you decide to put a cradle on it and tip it on its' side, make sure you empty the gas tank first... whoops!!

 

[jlaird]

LOL, but hay the gas cuts the oil nicely.