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Oil leaks continued

mylesw

Jedi Hopeful
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Hello

So finally found the time this afternoon to jack the car up and look for the oil leak. from the oil spot pattern on the floor I was expecting to see oil pouring out of the bellhousing of the gearbox. However whilst I was looking all around there, the oil was pouring out of the front of the engine (see attached pic which is after 5 minutes). Couldn't get under there myself for fear of getting oil in my eye, however used the camera to get a good shot. Looks like the oil is coming out between the pulley and the timing cover. So, what's the diagnosis..? How do I go about fixing it..?

Thanks for your help.

Myles
 

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Pull radiator, hoses and belts. Remove damper/pully and replace front seal. Most cars can be done insitu, worst case remove timing cover and push out and replace.
 
Thanks. Anything else I should do whilst I have the radiator out? How long should this job take start to finish?

Myles
 
LarryK forgot to add how difficult it may be to remove the starter dog/nut from the front to release the damper/pully in the first instance, you may need to release the engine mounts and raise the engine a tad to get a spanner onto the nut and then you have the devils own job of releasing it. Have not done it myself, but would be interested on how this is done also. I have made an inertia spanner - one you hit with a sledge hammer, but there is no room to manouver with a hammer insitue, thinks! unless you do it from underneath.

Bob
 
There are several ways to get the nut off. It is usually easier to jack up the front of the engine to get free access to the nut. (Motor mounts disconnected.) It depends on how much clearance is needed.

A 1 11/16" or 43mm wrench is needed.

A socket with long breaker bar can be braced against the frame & the starter energized to unscrew the nut. (Somewhat hazardous).

A "striking wrench" can be used with a large hammer. You can see an example here. You may need an offset model:
https://www.newmantools.com/wrenches/ozatfsw.htm

An impact wrench & socket is quite easy.

Which ever you do, make sure that the nut is replaced very tightly. A bit of Blue Loctite is good insurance.
D
 
Have used a blocker which I put on the ring gear via the starter motor orifice, locks the ring gear from moving during remove/install
 
You should look closely to be sure it's the oil seal. I thought I had a significant front oil seal leak. When I looked closer it was a loose bolt at the bottom of the timing cover. I was amazed that it leaked so much.
 
From the picture, you're missing the oval washers between the bolt heads and the oil pan. There are similar washers between the timing cover and the front plate.

My car leaks similarly, but less, between the timing cover and front plate. Tightening the bolts reduced the flow a little, but not much.
 
OK, so here I am with the radiator out, fan and belts removed. Engine jacked up, socket on the end of the nut. Not enough space to get my impact wrench on the end of the socket. Now, I thought that if I put the car in gear and had the wife engage the brakes, I would be able to use a breaker bar to undo the nut. However when I turn the breaker bar the pulley turns so I guess the rear brakes aren't strong enough to resist. Also tried the starter motor method but no joy there either. Any more suggestions about how I get this nut off...? By the way, I am assuming the nut has a regular thread..??

Thanks

Myles
 
Hello mylesw, yes the thread on the nut is a "regular" one, nothing fancy there.

As Dave said you may have to use a large hammer on the breaker bar as it will need the shock treatment of a good hard hit.

Good luck.

bundyrum.
 
As I mentioned earlier, this wrench or the offset version will remove any nut. Much more solid than a breaker bar. Attached.

Remember when you put the nut back on it needs to be as tight as it was before removing.
D
 

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Thanks for continuing advice, nut and pulleys etc are now off. When I went to continue work on the car this afternoon the nut was already loose...must have loosened it last night with the "starter method" without realizing it. Anyway, I'm now staring at the timing cover. It appears to me that I have to remove the timing cover to get the seal out, although LarryK seems to infer it can be done it situ. Any more advice on this? Thanks for helping me out.

Myles
 
mylesw, the timing cover comes right off after removing the bolts.

It's easier to replace the seal with it off and it gives you the chance to look at the timing chain/sprockets/tensioner also.

Look at the foot of the tensioner to see if there are any grooves in it where it has been rubbing on the chain.

Before removing anything check to see if there is any free play in the chain as well as how far the tensioner is out of it's housing.

Also look at the sprockets to see if the tips of the teeth are pointed or if they have a flat on the outside diameter, oh yes see if all the teeth are there on both sprockets. They should have a small flat on the tips.

While you are at this stage I would replace them depending on the above.



Dave. That is a great looking tool where are they available from?.

bundyrum.
 
Dave. I didn't go back and look at your previous post where you gave the site for the "OZAT striking wrench". Now I see it, thanks.

bundyrum.
 
Again an untried solution to holding the crank whilst getting the nut off. Un-tried by me that is.

Bend an old inlet valve ( by heating ) so that it can be used to lock in against the starter ring, I think the leg is passed through a hole in the back plate and the head of the valve jams into the teeth of the ring. Our Healey specialist has one and he says that it works a treat

Bob
 
All

Thanks for your help with this. Car is back together and running fine, oil leaks also seem to down considerable but not taken the car for a long trip yet. Good thing I removed the timing cover in the end as this is what I found...!

Myles
 

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