Getting the Vibration Dampner Off

[LanceLyon]

Does anyone know if the large nut on the end of the crankshaft needs to come off to get the dampner off? And why is there a "hand crank" connector on the end of the crankshaft if there is no way to get a hand crank to it (radiator is in the way until it is removed)?

 

[John Loftus]

Yes, it needs to come off. I was able to remove mine just tugging on a wrench but sometimes it takes extra leverage or pounding (striking wrench?). Another technique is to secure the wrench against the frame (padded) and then turn the engine over to break the nut loose. The handcrank nuts is just a leftover from the original A-90 Austin motor. Didn't they get used in tractors and taxis?

Cheers,
John

 

[Pete Haburt]

This is a timely post, as I have been thinking about this myself. The nut must come off, but it doesn't look like the damper can go forward enough to come off a 6cyl Healey with the crossmember so close while the engine/trans is bolted in. Can you raise it high enough to clear the crossmember without unbolting the rear trans mounts?
Pete H.

 

[John Loftus]

Pete,

The workshop manual goes over the steps to remove the timing chain cover in situ and talks about removing the radiator before pulling the crankshaft pully/damper assembly. Nothing about raising the engine up. They do say that if the whole assembly doesn't slide off that you remove the 6 bolts securing the damper. So the damper should come off at this point and you don't need to remove pulley. (Lance ... in this case maybe you can get the damper off, or what's left of it, without removing the dog nut) Hope this helps, I don't have my engine here to look at.

Cheers,
John

[ 02-16-2004: Message edited by: John Loftus ]</p>

 

[LanceLyon]

You are a wealth of information, John! In my case the dog nut does have to come off since the flange of the damper will not clear the nut without hitting the cross frame member. All I need now is a wrench big enough to fit it! Pete, don't forget to knock back the tab on the locking washer before trying to break the nut loose.

 

[Johnny]

I remembered someone told me to be sure and loosen the "dog nut" on the end of the crankshaft before removing the engine from the car. It's very tight and almost impossible to do on an engine stand. The front of the motor had to be raised to clear the frame, due to having to use a borrowed large socket, if you can locate a spanner/wrench big enough you wouldn't have to raise the engine. At the factory I read that they used a very large spanner and applied something like 200 or more foot pounds of torque, (big hammer) to tighten. Check with the Healey clubs, a good source for one time use tools like this.

 

[Hangtown Healey]

Yes, you need to raise the engine up. No, you do not need to undo the transmission mount. A good air impact wrench should get the nut off. If not, you need to figure out some kind of striking wrench that you can use a hammer with. Do not damage your shroud with long bars, etc. Do not stick a screw driver up against the ring gear attempting to keep the crank shaft at rest. Change the timing cover seal while you are in there. Sleeve the crank or reposition the seal with a shim if there is a groove in the crank.

 

[Pete Haburt]

Once again. Thanks for all your input.

Pete

 

[Randy Forbes]

Well, thanks guys!

Y'all pushed me over the edge...

I just pulled the dampener off my car and ordered the racing one from Australia (through Moss Motors).

I did indeed have to raise the engine about an inch or better (until the bellhousing made contact with the tunnel). I had the dampener unbolted from the pulley/hub. The dampener alone could be removed without raising the engine, but no cigar with the pulley/hub.

Now, I'm hoping that there is enough room to slip the new one in the space available...
I am not prepared, nor presently equipped to lift the engine any higher!

 

[LanceLyon]

I'll be da**ed if I can break the dog nut free. I ended up purchasing a big socket (1-11/16)to grab the nut, and have had no luck using either the "striking" method or the method of bracing the handle acros a frame member and using the starter.

When using the striking method I would put the trans in gear and lock the handbrake, but you can't get the engine to completely lock up, so there is always a little "give" when you strike the handle.

Anybody have any additional ideas?

 

[Randy Forbes]

You may need to resort to using a pneumatic impact gun.

I was able to remove mine with surprisingly little effort, maybe too easily(?).

 

[Dave Russell]

"Anybody have any additional ideas?"

Yes, with the correct wrench the only torque limit is the size of the hammer you can swing. You have to hit it hard & quick. The factory used a wrench similar to the ones shown here;
https://www.mytoolstore.com/ozat/strkwrin.html
Maybe you can borrow, rent, build, or buy one.
The socket handle is way too springy to pound on successfully. With impact tools such as this or an air wrench it is not necessary to hold the crankshaft. It's the impact working against the crankshaft inertia that does the work.
D

[ 02-28-2004: Message edited by: Dave Russell ]</p>

 

[LanceLyon]

Thanks Dave & Randy ... the impact wrench did the trick!