Front shock bolts

[RestoreThemAll]

Hello folks.

Back ground: We've jumped into the restoration of my BJ7 after years of little attention. I don't have all of the bolts, and figured that it would be best to replace most with fresh strong bolts. I did buy an "in a box" kit from across the pond but after over three months of back and forth emails still do not have any documentation, just containers of nuts and bolts. I'll stop there as I don't want to break any rules surrounding vendor bashing.

We have all of the front suspension ready to install, minus bolts. Looking for the correct bolts to install the front shocks. I'm fairly certain that they need to be 9/16 head, 3/8 width, and one inch long. I'd like to verify that they are 24 threads per inch? Do they require a washer and lock washer? Most importantly, are they a shoulder bolt? It seems like they must have to be.

Thanks for any help that you might offer.
Dale

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Hello folks.

Back ground: We've jumped into the restoration of my BJ7 after years of little attention. I don't have all of the bolts, and figured that it would be best to replace most with fresh strong bolts. I did buy an "in a box" kit from across the pond but after over three months of back and forth emails still do not have any documentation, just containers of nuts and bolts. I'll stop there as I don't want to break any rules surrounding vendor bashing.

We have all of the front suspension ready to install, minus bolts. Looking for the correct bolts to install the front shocks. I'm fairly certain that they need to be 9/16 head, 3/8 width, and one inch long. I'd like to verify that they are 24 threads per inch? Do they require a washer and lock washer? Most importantly, are they a shoulder bolt? It seems like they must have to be.

Thanks for any help that you might offer.
Dale

Do you have a "Parts Manual" and a "Bolt Code" list? I highly recommend those two items to get the right bolts back in their right spots. You'll have a lot more questions than you can imagine without the above.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Hello folks.

Back ground: We've jumped into the restoration of my BJ7 after years of little attention. I don't have all of the bolts, and figured that it would be best to replace most with fresh strong bolts. I did buy an "in a box" kit from across the pond but after over three months of back and forth emails still do not have any documentation, just containers of nuts and bolts. I'll stop there as I don't want to break any rules surrounding vendor bashing.

We have all of the front suspension ready to install, minus bolts. Looking for the correct bolts to install the front shocks. I'm fairly certain that they need to be 9/16 head, 3/8 width, and one inch long. I'd like to verify that they are 24 threads per inch? Do they require a washer and lock washer? Most importantly, are they a shoulder bolt? It seems like they must have to be.

Thanks for any help that you might offer.
Dale

Do you have a "Parts Manual" and a "Bolt Code" list? I highly recommend those two items to get the right bolts back in their right spots. You'll have a lot more questions than you can imagine without the above.

I forgot to answer your question:
<span style="font-weight: bold">Bolt Part No</span>. - HZS 0608 - 3/8" x 1" (I believe it is 24 threads)
<span style="font-weight: bold">Washer, spring No</span>. - LWZ 306 - 3/8"
No "flat" washer used per illustration.

I "spot faced" these bolts on ALL my shocks. I had to use aircraft washers because hardware stores do not carry the correct size I needed. You will also need the correct type of "bit" and drill press to do this. The shock surface is not perfectly "true" so that's why I went to the trouble to spot face the shocks. I also ued grade 8 bolts for the front shocks.

*See photos for spot-facing.

 

[Keoke]

to install the front shocks. I'm fairly certain that they need to be 9/16 head, 3/8 width, and one inch long. I'd like to verify that they are 24 threads per inch? --No
I think they are a fine thread. Carefully try each thread type and see which fits,


They require a lock washer--Yes
Most importantly, are they a shoulder bolt?-----No

A parts Manual as suggested will help much

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

to install the front shocks. I'm fairly certain that they need to be 9/16 head, 3/8 width, and one inch long. I'd like to verify that they are 24 threads per inch? --No
I think they are a fine thread. Carefully try each thread type and see which fits,


They require a lock washer--Yes
Most importantly, are they a shoulder bolt?-----No

A parts Manual as suggested will help much

"28 threads"?

 

[RestoreThemAll]

I did some more digging in my computer files today. I found a bolt code list for a BJ8. I'm guessing that most fasteners are the same as my BJ7? It is tough to decifer but I'm starting to understand it.

I do have a BMC shop manual that shows diagrams and it's very helpful. It doesn't give too many specifics on bolt threads or sizes.

I should be able to figure out most fasteners with these two tools. I see a discussion on another thread that covers the Andersen/moment documents to.

Patrick, I see what you've done with the facing. Nice work. That helps to keep the shock from sliding? Without the facing the only thing to hold it in place is tension from the torked bolts. I've read that people do have problems with the back shock loosening. Do folks have problems with the front shocks moving about?

Thanks guys!
Dale

 

[Frameman]

Hi Dale, The bolt is 3/8 X24 1 1/4". You are using a Jule chassis, all the welded in nuts are grade 5. The bolts must be a grade 5 also. they can be purchased at Brofasco or any nut & bolt outlet. Use cad plated bolts.
The original chassis used grade 2 bolts. These should not be used because they are too soft. Do not use grade 9 when the hardware is grade 5 because this will damage the threads. Never reuse original bolts. Once a bolt has been stressed it should not be reused. Generally the cost for the hardware will be $300.00.
We have found the hardware we have received from the UK has been soft and will strip easily.

Marty

 

[Keoke]

The bolt is 3/8 X24 1 1/4". You are using a Jule chassis

Interesting, why use standard thread in a high load application likr the shocks when a fine thread provides more clamping force.?--Keoke

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I did some more digging in my computer files today. I found a bolt code list for a BJ8. I'm guessing that most fasteners are the same as my BJ7? It is tough to decifer but I'm starting to understand it.

I do have a BMC shop manual that shows diagrams and it's very helpful. It doesn't give too many specifics on bolt threads or sizes.

I should be able to figure out most fasteners with these two tools. I see a discussion on another thread that covers the Andersen/moment documents to.

Patrick, I see what you've done with the facing. Nice work. That helps to keep the shock from sliding? Without the facing the only thing to hold it in place is tension from the torked bolts. I've read that people do have problems with the back shock loosening. Do folks have problems with the front shocks moving about?
Dale
**I did the spot facing on the advice of friends who said that the shocks are cast metal with irreggular surfaces and the spot facing gives the bolts a true flush mounting surface. There may be more good reasons to do it but this one reason was enough for me since I'm doing a frame-up restoration with a new Jule Frame. If the holes in the shocks are good and not oval from previous loose bolts you shouldn't have problems with the shocks moving around. The front shocks seem to have the most problems with the bolts loosening. You won't hear a knocking sound when they are loose as compared to the rear shocks when they are loose. Lose rear shocks will make the mounting hole oval! It is extremely important to make sure your front shocks are checked occassionaly for looseness because when they "fall off", you will lose control of your steering.

Martin, "Frameman" just posted about the bolts needing to be 1 1/4" in length so now I have to check my records to see what I ordered in grade 8 bolts to make sure I have the correct length that he recommends for his Frames.
Pat

 

[RestoreThemAll]

Marty!

Now why didn't I just call or email the Frameman in the first place? You did build that chassis. I haven't worked on the car much but I have watched the BCF at least one per week. That kept the project alive for me. Probably why I go here first. Many searches and notes taken from current threads are stored on my computer.

Thanks for the note Marty. I'll probably be in touch soon as we finally put this thing back together.

Patrick,
I see what you're saying. My shock holes are round, not worn. I should be Ok. I am temped to add flat washers but I guess they aren't needed.

Thanks all!
Dale

 

[HealeyBN7]

The bolt is 3/8 X24 1 1/4". You are using a Jule chassis

Interesting, why use standard thread in a high load application likr the shocks when a fine thread provides more clamping force.?--Keoke

3/8 x 24 is fine thread. Wouldn't standard thread be 3/8 x 16?

Dean

 

[Randy Forbes]

The spot-facing is definitely a nice touch, but to be the most effective, the "spot" should've been the same diameter of the washer used (or socket-head capscrew diameter). That would've truly locked the shock in location, centered on the bolt holes.

Still though, a flat/parallel surface is better than what you started with.

 

[Frameman]

Keoke,3/8 24 is fine thread. The question that should have been asked why did they use a grade 2 hardware in these high stress areas. The min. standards is a min. grade 5.

Pat, I don't recommend using grade 8 bolts. The pulling strengths of these bolts will damage the grade 5 nuts in the chassis.

Dale, I believe I have a list of all the hardware needed. We are doing some upgrades to our site right now but when it is back up I will post it there. Meanwhile if you have any questions just give me a call. I am anxious to see your finished project.
The 1 1/4" bolt will have a short shoulder on it.

Marty

 

[RestoreThemAll]

Marty,

You just made my day! If your list of hardware shows which hardware goes where I'll plan to be happy for a week!

Dale

 

[suprgnat]

FWIW, the shock bolts that came off of my Phase 1 were 1" long.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

FWIW, the shock bolts that came off of my Phase 1 were 1" long.

My Phase 2 also had 1", but I believe the Jule Frames have more threads in the shock tower platform"?", and that would be Marty's recommendation.

 

[John Turney]

...

Pat, I don't recommend using grade 8 bolts. The pulling strengths of these bolts will damage the grade 5 nuts in the chassis.
...

Oh, no, after 10 years of driving around with grade 8 bolts, now I find out!

 

[Keoke]

Keoke,3/8 24 is fine thread.

Yep you guys are right. I had 10 X 32 locked in the memory- :laugh:


The question that should have been asked why did they use a grade 2 hardware in these high stress areas. The min. standards is a min. grade 5.
Yeah I knew about that too- :laugh:

I just opened the mounting plate up on the edges and welded grade 8 nuts inside