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Front shock R&R instructions / pix / DIY?

tosoutherncars

Jedi Knight
Offline
Hi all,

Just ordered my front shocks from Peter C. (nice fellow!)

I had a quick search, but couldn't find a thread that had a "how-to" for removal and replacement of the shocks. I'm sure it's pretty simple; remove wheel, disconnect lever arm from kinpin ass'y, unbolt shock body, etc. But just in case, does anyone have a write-up already done?

TIA,
Duncan
 

sparkydave

Jedi Knight
Country flag
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Hi Duncan, I've done it, but there's not much to it. Like you said, unhook the lever, unbolt the shock, bolt new shock in, and reconnect arm. I got my shock from Moss, and I can't remember if it came filled with oil or not. If you need to fill it, get a small funnel and work the arm a few times (put the plug back in first!) to burp the air out.
 

Pythias

Jedi Knight
Country flag
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PPP's shocks come ready to go.
 

Midget78

Jedi Trainee
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Duncan,
I just got done doing this yesterday and wow, what a difference a simple shock will do. This is my approach. Keep in mind I did this on my 78 MG 1500 and changed the front passenger side which is the harder of the 2 sides because of things being in the way.
1.) Opened up the hood and I removed the overflow canister for the coolant. The bracket that holds the canister was removed also. This gives you a clear view down to the top of the shock. There are (3) bolts that you need to get at. I sprayed mine with PB Blaster a few days before just in case they were seized up. I used a long extension and socket and broke them loose.
2.) Get the car jacked up properly to remove the tire and support the car with jack stands in the right support areas. Then move the jack pad under the A-arm so you can raise and lower the arm as needed.
3.) There is a bolt on the end of the arm that pinches the pin. Remove this. Then remove the cotter pin on the top pin nut and take the nut off. With the nut off and the A arm positioned so the shock arm isnt stressed take the pin out. I used a large socket and unscrewed it as it came out part way then carefully used a drive pin to tap it the rest of the way out. If you have the A arm jacked up just right it will come out straight and pretty easy. Notice on the pin a grind mark area. This is to clear the bolt that is used on the end of the arm to pinch the pin. Inspect the rubber grommets that the pin goes through for wear and cracking of the rubber. This is the time to replace them and will help firm things up. I got the new Nylock self lubricated ones for $6.00 for 2 of them. You need one on each side of the top knuckle.
3.) Go back to the top of the shock and remove the 3 bolts. These are long and fine thread so it takes a bit of turning for them to come out. With the bolts out you should now be able to remove the shock.
4.) Clean the body frame area where the shock was and put the new in position. Put the 3 bolts in and get them screwed down to the shock but do not tighten all the way yet.
5.) Put your new grommets into the knuckle. These just push in and will seat as you tighten the pin.
6.) Position the arm at the knuckle and put the pin back in the way it came out. Again, use the jack to position the A arm just right so it goes in straight and easy. Also, remember the grind mark! Make sure the pin is turned so the end bolt that goes in the arm can be threaded in. If it wont go in then the pin isnt turned right.
7.) With the pin through the new bushings and arm, put the nut on and tighten down. then put the cotter pin back in and bend the pin ends around the nut.
8.) The bolt that is on the end of the arm now should be tightened.
9.) Go back to the 3 bolts on top of the shock and torque them down all the way. When all is tightened and back together correctly all this should be firm and have no play or movment other then the arm working up and down. Now is the time to grab the brake rotor and see if you have wear anywhere else by jerking on it left to right. Check tie-rod ends, bottom pin wear and king pins, & wheel bearings.
10.) Put the over flow tank back on with the tire and take it for a test drive.

I hope this helps and I know my termanology may be a bit wrong on some of the parts described but I think you can work from this. Its isnt hard as long as you have PB Blaster or something to prep a day in advance or so.

Good Luck!
 
OP
tosoutherncars

tosoutherncars

Jedi Knight
Offline
Thanks, that's perfect! Maybe, for the sake of future generations, I'll photograph my wrench-turning when I get around to it, next weekend hopefully.

I appreciate the write-up!
 

Jim_Gruber

Yoda
Country flag
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Duncan,

Check on of the other threads here in the last two days. A complete step by step including the front end rebuild is in there.
 

Midget78

Jedi Trainee
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Duncan, The site that Jim mentioned is also a great read on the entire suspension picture and how easy things get out of hand from component wear. It still amazes me how my fulcrum arm on my shock being worn just a bit up at the shock made the car all over the road and more so the braking. I thought my calliper was sticking and almost replaced it when all along it was the shock. She drives straight and stops evenly now. No more pulling to one side.
The one thing I did think about is the amount of slop that is at the wear point on the shock. That amount gets multiplied every inch away to the distance to the tire. 1/8" of slop turns into an inch at the tire. Thus you end up with an awfull lot of play. Maybe in the future if I can ever find a working digital camera I will start attaching some pics to support my adventures.
 

Jim_Gruber

Yoda
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The suspension is not cheap to fix but it brings the greatest joy for the $ when it is right!
 
OP
tosoutherncars

tosoutherncars

Jedi Knight
Offline
Thanks guys! Yes, thankfully I've already done the front-end rebuild; new kingpins, all poly bushings, all bearings etc. But I'd foolishly decided to try rebuilding or servicing my shocks myself, so I didn't touch them during the rebuild. I've since come to my senses, and ordered rebuilt units from Peter.
 
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