1967 Healey 3000 Keeps Stalling

Hi everyone.

I have this reoccurring problem with my 1967 Healey 3000 and am seeking help. It keeps stalling out on me. I would attempt to drive it just around the block and then a few minutes later, it would stall. I would have to wait several minutes before attempting to start it again and take off, but only to have it stall out on me less than a minute later. Sometimes, it would make popping sounds from the engine compartment or act like there is no fuel and I would just coast to a stop.

Even before buying this car and taking it for a test drive, it also would stall the same way. The owner thought it was out of gas. But after adding fuel, it would start but soon stall again (and again and again).

The symptoms have always remained unchanged and I should note what [related] repairs I have made since that date:

1. Rebuilt both *HD-8 SU’s;
2. Complete tune up including new points, rotor, distributor cap, plugs, wires, condenser.
3. Tested and adjusted rocker valve clearances (to 0.012”);
4. Tested for vacuum leak using starter fluid around all possible infiltrations of intake manifold.
5. Tested fuel pump pressure and flow at point where they entering SU‘s. Pressure measures approx. 250 PSIG on gauge. I also noticed fuel would maintain constant flow (but never a continuous stream, but rather an even, pulsating flow).
6. Installed a new battery.

* In terms of tuning up the SU’s, I followed literature given to me as well as various U-Tube videos (John Swift). In general terms, with the engine running hot at 180 being the low, to as much as 190 being the high (outside temperature being 90 degrees) oil pressure starting at 60~70 psi, then later at 50 psi (or as low as 20 at idle on a hot day), I first balanced both carbs with a unisyn, back and forth, revving after each adjustment. I also made sure the throttles and linkage open and close at the same time. So far, my exhaust shows little or no black or blue smoke. It would idle even and constant. Accelerating seems to be a different story. So, did I or did I not tune up the carbs perfectly, or maybe something else is going on??

What I feel I still need to do:

1. Timing, but I cannot find the marks ANYWHERE on the engine pulley below. I have used a timing light but after cleaning up the pulley, I still cannot find markings.
2. I am beginning to wonder if the previous owner did something with the distributor cam. Anyway of knowing or testing?
3. Vacuum advance. What should I do to test or what to look for?
4. What else should I check or replace???

Thanks for any advice offered. I live in Fort Lee, NJ. Anybody living close by??

Frustrated,

Paul

Change the ignition coil.

I assume you meant fuel pressure is 2.5 psi and that would be normal. It is supposed to flow in a pulsating fashion as that is how the fuel pump works. I hope you have a groove in the pulley, that is Top dead center TDC for #1 cylinder. You have to estimate degrees before TDC to set timing or use a timing light that you can enter the amount of advance you want and set the distributor to blink on the TDC mark. Vacuum advance shows up as a movement away from TDC as you rev the engine. Stalling you describe could be a result of too lean a mixture. Does it stall when the choke is on and cold? That could mean choke is not fully on. Does it stall when choke is off and warm? If so, try pulling on The choke to see if richening the mixture reduces or eliminates the stalling.

Oil pressure as you described is normal and would not cause stalling. I have not had your problem so others who have will have to respond with possible solutions.

Is this a joke, it sounds like a good idea but Donovans long thread included this post:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:][/quote]That's what I told him 37 posts ago (I have no idea how many....).
From the battery lead on the solenoid, just jump to the start lead.
THAT would have told us weeks ago if the solenoid worked (which I bet the old one does), the battery and connections were fine, and the starter worked.
Would have pinpointed starter control and wiring, weeks ago.

In a production shop, the FIRST thing you would do was jumper, and you'd know where to go, instead of ordering and replacing parts and it STILL won't start from the cockpit.

The SECOND thing that would have happened is you'd get fired.

I'm surprised nobody told him to replace the coil.

Everybody replaces the coil before they figure out what's really wrong.

Hi Paul,

Although I think all the suggestions are potential and the work you have already done is substantial, I would suggest you look to make sure the white and black wire on the battery cut-off switch is in place and secure before you do anything else.

About 35 years ago, I had a similar experience that drove me crazy for 2 weeks. At that time the Healey was our only family car. One Saturday, while trying to identify the cause of the car's random stalling, my wife passed what I thought was a sarcastic remark. With my head under the bonnet, she commented “Have you checked the trunk?” Ignoring her comment, I continued my search in my own way.

While loading my tools into the boot at the end of the day, I happened to drop the flash light when turning the cut-off switch. Now illuminated, I noticed that the black and white wire, that should have been connected to the back of the switch, had come loose and was hit the body and ground the points as the car bounced along.

Paul, I appreciate this is a verbose explanation, however, it does give you some context for the possibility I am presenting.

Good luck,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
Colts Neck, NJ

ing, but I cannot find the marks ANYWHERE on the engine pulley below. I have used a timing light but after cleaning up the pulley, I still cannot find marking

There are no markings only a small notch cut in the thin lip of the pulley.

However, to roughly set the timing with the engine warm and idling, rotate the distributor CW until the engine stumbles. Now rotate the distributor CCW until it stumbles again. Set the distributor in the middle of this range and see if the car performs correctly----Keoke

Yes, try changing the ignition coil...my BN6 would stutter/stall once hot and then restart fine after a short while only to do it again. Turned out to be the ignition coil giving up the ghost.

Paul...a few simple things you might check- i've had ignition points slip where the car would run fine for a few minutes...then the gap would decrease to the point where the engine would stop running once warmed up. A simple star washer under the points fixed the slippage. That fix of course assumes you still have points and not an electronic ignition. Another issue I've experienced is a corroded fuel line and/or inlet at the tank. The car would idle fine as the fuel pump would manage to fill the carb bowls, but once driving the pump couldn't pass enough fuel through the clogged line to adequately supply the carbs and it would stall.
That's my 2 cents. Good luck!
Austin

i was with paul lsat week and witnessed the stalling out ,the car starts beautiful and was ideling fine then while drivine it just stopped ,he failed to mention that the car was supposedly converted to negetive ground doesn't the fuel pump need to be converted as well also doesn't the tach need to have something done to it the loop in the back ,electrical isn't my strong point ,i know to convert to negetive ground its more than just turning the battery around

,i know to convert to negetive ground its more than just turning the battery around.

Yes the Tach must be modified to operate on Neg ground.

However, this should not contribute to this problem the Tach just will not work.

Well it depends on the configuration of the pump.

If an electronic Pos Gnd pump it would have failed and not be working.

If it is a later type Positive Gnd Diode protected points pump, the diode may have melted and also put a hole in the end cap too.It May continue to work or it might be inoperable depending on the failure mode of the diode -Open or Short.

If the original positive Gnd type with the electrolytic capacitor or one that has had the capacitor removed to make it dual polarity it would have caused the capacitor to fail but in either case the pump may continue to work until the points fail.--Keoke

it might be a stupid thing why it stops it started no prob idled great sounded good then when we went just maybe 2 small blocks it koncked out very wierd diddn't know what to do i still think its a elec prob

Hi All,

Keoke is on the mark. The direction of the tach pick-up must be switched but would not be a cause of Paul’s problem. The fuel pump will either work or not and, if it is the original, would most likely be bi-polar.

Although I believe there are many things that could cause the stalling, as described, I still strongly suggest you make a quick check of the white and black distributor point grounding wire attached to the back of the cut-off switch. The Healey runs fine and then stops when the loose bouncing wire happens to hit the body and ground the points.

Good luck,
Ray (64BJ8P1)

If timing wrong enough to make it stall it would not start,but here is how to set mark on pulley. Take out #1cyl spark plug (take out others if you are energetic). Put a screwdriver into #1 cyl plug hole and feel top of cylinder, place screwdriver in mouth while still in plug hole, with car in 3 or 4 gear, use hands to turn wheel and that will rotate crank shaft and you can feel screwdriver being moved up and down with piston. when screwdriver at top of piston stroke stop right there (perhaps go back and forth with tire to make sure it is just right)--you must be sure this is top of compression stroke and not exhaust stroke. If you have a timing pointer on the block, take a small paint brush or a dab of white paint on tip of screwdriver that you have removed from hole and your mouth, put a drop of white paint on pulley, now you have a marker for Top Dead Center (TDC). If no timing pointer make one of aluminum and attach to a convenient bolt. All you need is a piece of metal cut or filed to a point that nearly touches the pulley, attach it firmly to the engine block and put white dot on pulley at tip of pointer (a white dot on tip of pointer helps so you just line up dots with timing light).
Next take a finely ruled tape measure and wrap around pulley to get circumference. Then divide that by 365 degrees and you will know how many millimeters on pulley is equal to one degree of crankshaft movement. Again move tire, making sure you are moving car forward so you can see direction of pulley movement when engine running. Then make a few marks on pulley for relevant timing, such as 5deg, 7deg and 10deg before the timing pointer points to TDC
Jay, '65 3000

I just want to say thank you all for your input so far. I have received a ton of input here as well as from other sources regarding my stalling problems.

I will put together a "punch list" of the possible causes I received so far and the direction I should or must take.

I will definitely share here in more detail within the next day or two.

Thanks again all.

Paul

I would take it for another drive, as soon as it stalls I would check for fuel (pull the line see if it is pumping at the same rate as when you checked in the garage, ideally with a friend who can flick the ignition on and off while you check) then check spark by pulling a wire and using a screwdriver oor something and holding it close to a ground, if you have spark and fuel it may be something with timing and carburation/vacuum. No sense chasing all the possibilities down at once, narrow the possible causes.

Doesn't a BN6 have a mechanical tach?

Agree the pump would either be fried by the polarity converstion or not.

Your symptoms seem to indicate vapor lock. The probable cause is due to a missing heat shield.

Richard

Hi everyone.

As a reminder, please refer to the top of the page here as to all work I've done thus far to my car and the stalling problems I am still having.

From all the input and advice I have received so far from fellow members of the BCF site, The AHSTC of Northern New Jersey and from individuals, I've put together a kind of “punch list” of all possible reasons why my car keeps stalling out upon acceleration. Some of the possible causes listed do not necessarily relate to a cause and effect (e.g. compression testing, clear gas filter, etc.), but it wouldn't hurt to have or to record as data for future issues, in my opinion.

Items #1 through #7 and #15 directly relate to the fuel system and I will tackle those first (and from easiest and least expensive to hardest and most expensive). Those with a double asterisk implies I will hold off until everything else is checked (especially since money now comes into the picture--I just want to be sure the money is well spent) or labor intensiveness (#6, especially). I do have an extra fuel pump so #5 may not be a monetary issue, as long as the one I have is not polarity sensitive.

The List of possible causes for my vehicle to repetitively stall upon acceleration:

*1. Carburetor float(s) not working properly.
*2. Gross jet levers not positioned properly.
*3. Fuel lines may have possible restrictions in flow.
*4. Fuel filter between gas tank and pump may be clogged.
*5. Fuel pump may be quitting out during acceleration.
**6. “Sock” in fuel tank may becoming clogged or blocked.
*7. Gas cap vent may be restricting proper amount of air flow.
*8. Timing to be adjusted.
*9. Test for vacuum leak using “inHg” vacuum gauge.
**10. Defective distributor.
*11. Defective distributor rotor.
*12. Reconnect wires to Cut-Off switch.
**13. Defective ignition coil.
*14. Test voltage output to rebuilt generator.
*15. Install new clear window type gas filter.
*16. Reverse coil wiring to Tachometer (presently not working due to conversion process which may not be complete).

Any other thoughts, please let me know. Thank you all for your input and advice. I will keep you posted, especially if success is reached.

Paul


PS. To Helpful Person above, I do have my heat shield in place with asbestos lining fully intact. Is this what you mean? Thanks.

I think you are right to start with the fuel system, I have had a couple, and heard about many more instances of gas tank debris clogging the line somewhere, pressure pushes/pulls the debris to the constriction point as you drive, flow decreases, car stalls, pumps is turned off, debris disperses with no pressure to hold it in place, cars starts like all is fine cycle begins anew.

qlemon,

Yes, I do think your right, too! At least, to start with the fuel system.

MY STALLING PROBLEMS ARE GONE!!!!!!

Today, I installed a new clear type gas filter just before the SU's. Actually, the clear gas filter replaced the solid one I installed a couple of months ago.

I also inspected the float level to both fuel chambers. They both were at about 1/2" to 9/16" spacing. I adjusted both to about 5/16" (they may be a bit more at the moment, like under 3/8").

Then I got nervous and took it out. for 25 minutes, I was driving a Healey all around the town!!!!!

She felt a little nervous, too, but we both made it back. Because the interior hump is off for the moment, it was like an oven in my car.

Of the two changes made, I do believe it was the floats that made the difference!

Thank you all for all your input. I will keep a record of all the possible causes just in case this should happen again.

Enjoy!

Paul

MY STALLING PROBLEMS ARE GONE!!!!!



GOOD---Keoke-- :lol: