karls59tr said:
Those generator bolts sure like to do the hula and fall out.
That they do. I believe what happens is that, at certain engine speeds, the belt hits some kind of resonance and starts flapping around, which vibrates the generator even harder than being attached to the engine does. Some things I do that seem to help:
1) Use hardened flat washers (aka "setup" washers) against all of the generator ears. They help spread out the load, making the relatively soft aluminum less likely to deform and let the joint go loose.
2) Use bolts with shanks long enough to go at least partially into the generator ears. You don't want that soft aluminum to touch the bolt threads. In some cases, this requires using a bolt longer than would be otherwise required (I sometimes cut off the excess thread length).
3) Always tighten all 3 bolts firmly after any generator adjustment. Kind of tricky to do, but very important. If you can move the generator, the bolt is too loose for operation.
4) Use new lock washers if there is any doubt about their condition. Lock washers should have sharp edges at the split and be spread by at least a full washer thickness. I added a lockwasher to that rear bolt, even though it appears the factory didn't use one.
5) Use a new Nyloc nut, every time you reinstall the pedestal.
6) My generator ears were all waddled out to some extent, so I reamed and sleeved them with thinwall brass tubing. They need to be a fairly snug fit on the bolt shank. The threaded ear has a Helicoil in it.
7) On the adjustment link, use a heavy flatwasher and nut on the forward side of the generator ear to lock the bolt against the threads inside the ear. Also be sure to use a flat washer between the slotted link and the ear on that side. No lockwasher is required.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I'll do a proper wiring repair this time and maybe try to get some thermal insulation down in that area as well. [/QUOTE]
Good! I really despise twisted wires as, even with tape, it's just a matter of time before you have problems with that joint. No matter how tight you twist them, copper is not strong enough to hold a good, gas-tight joint by itself.
MMC sells some high temperature sleeving that can be used to help protect the wires; if you can't find anything locally. So far though, I've gotten by with just some standard heat-shrink tubing at the end, and routing the wires as far from the manifold as possible.