TR2/3/3A Tr3 heater valve

[ekamm]

I broke the pipe coming out of the heater control valve when I changed motor mounts. It appeared to be 1/4"npt but I was having trouble finding some thing to temporarily fix it that would thread in. Is it british pipe thread? is there some thin that I could use to reconnect it temporarily until I am able to get the correct pipe?

 

[TR3driver]

I would remove the valve from the head. The threads in the head are standard pipe threads (3/8 NPT IIRC) so you can install a pipe nipple, elbow and NPT-to-hose barb (all available at your local "home center") to temporarily connect the heater.

Or just install a pipe plug and plug the line to the heater with something, if you can get by without heat for now.

 

[ekamm]

I did block the line but wanted to connect the heater and then next time I order something get the pipe. The 3/8 was too large the 1/4" was the correct size but I was having trouble getting the nipple to start. I'll take the valve out and see if the threads need to be chased with a tap. I was just wondering if the thread as unusual. When I removed the broken part there were only 2 threads or so in the valve, seems a little shallow even though the wall of the valve isn't very thick and the nipple can't block the valves operation.

 

[Geo Hahn]

As I recall that pipe into the valve has a very short threaded portion (as you discovered).

Here is a shot of my TR4 which has no heater. The 45 degree street ell (I think that is what the plumbers call it) and a plug are used in lieu of the valve. You should be able to rig up something similar to either plug it or add a barb where mine is plugged.

 

[TomMull]

Eric,
I have a spare clean head and can firm that 3/8 NPT goes right in. I might have a spare pipe too but will need time to dig.
Tom

 

[ekamm]

The hole in the block is a 3/8 hole, but the outlet from the valve is 1/4". I'll get a chance tomorrow to get it functional again. I'm pretty sure that the threads may be a bit funky from the fitting being pulled on.

 

[TR3driver]

I'm almost certain that the threads from the valve for the side nipple are not standard NPT threads. Much finer pitch, and as I recall, straight not tapered. Also the valve body is rather thin for ordinary pipe threads. That is why I suggested removing the valve instead.

 

[ekamm]

Got it I thought you had suggested taking it out to put a nipple into the valve. I'll likely just cap it off for now.

 

[ekamm]

So I thought that I would update my post for the record. I took the nipple to my really good local too store and showed the broken piece to an old guy that seems to know everything. He immediately identified the tread as British Standard Pipe Thread. He walked me over by the tap and die section, reached up on the top of a shelf where a box of BSP tap and dies were located. I bought a 3" x 1/4" brass nipple, cut off one end and threaded the cut end to 1/4" x 19 BSP the other still being NPT. Screwed on a reducer that got me to 1/2" barb and that puppy works wonderfully.

P.S. I think that the fitting part of the valve that screws into the block is also BSP maybe 1/2".

 

[jwolff]

If I wanted to run without my heater and install a plug in place of my heater valve, what do I need to do to the other side near the distributor? Can I simply remove that pipe and install a plug there as well?
thanks

 

[ekamm]

Yes I would assume that water will come from both sides as there is nothing to stop it.

 

[TR3driver]

Yup. If you remove the adapter that the pipe fastens to, the WP housing will take a pipe plug.

This was actually the standard configuration, the heater was optional. To be "correct", though, you need to remove the fittings at the firewall and replace them with blanking plates.

 

[jwolff]

Thanks for the information, I was curious how the standard configuration was set up.