TR2/3/3A TR3 Fuel Pump: Mechanical vs. Electric

[RedTR3]

As I continue to try to make my TR3 “driver” more reliable, now I am weighing mechanical vs. electric fuel pumps. I have heard that many drivers use the little cylindrical Carter P60504 with good success. On the other hand, regarding the mechanical unit, is a rebuilt AC better than repro pumps? Thanks in advance for your opinions!

 

[TR3driver]

Sort of a personal preference item, IMO. Mine is for a rebuilt original pump.

In over 200,000 lifetime miles in a TR3A, the original pump has never let me down.

In less than 10,000 miles, the replacement electric pump in the first Stag quit entirely and had to be replaced. Fortunately I was carrying a spare.

Never tried the Carter, but my preference for an electric is the little rectangular Facet pump. Cheap and reliable (if somewhat noisy, use rubber mounts).

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Hi Red,

Thought that you might find this interesting reading as well.

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...esti#Post558198

Cheers,
M.Pied Lourd

 

[Geo Hahn]

My preference is for a rebuilt original. Better construction than the repros and has a priming lever.

I carry an electric pump for a quick-to-fit spare. Have used it quite often -- usually on other people's cars. Once they see how quickly it gets them back on the road they run down to Checker and get one for their very own.

 

[vivdownunder]

Modern electronic electric fuel pumps are quieter and more reliable than "clacker" type units. However you must specify low pressure for SU carbies - max 2.5 lbs per sq.inch.

They work best mounted down in the rear axle well in a safe position, and gravity fed from the tank.

I have an inline filter between the tank and the pump to keep it clean.

The advantages of the electric pump are -

1. Fills the carbies before hitting the starter, thus cutting starter motor churn.

2. Saves battery drain.

3. Overcomes fuel vapourisation in hot climates. (Fuel doesn't pass through a hot pump bolted to the motor).

4. Provides an even supply of fuel, rather than fluctuating with revs.

It's advisable to fit a rollover cutout switch with an electric pump.

Viv.

 

[PeterK]

Not a bad idea to mount the rear electric on it's own skid pan to protect it just in case. A bent piece of scrap sheet metal is all that's needed to keep road debris from taking it out.

 

[DrEntropy]

I've the Carter on the Alfa I use as a daily, it has been in there for five years now. The rest of the fleet are a hodge-podge of electric pumps. S-3 Elan has an SU from the back, +2 and the MGB have Facets mounted on rubber bobbins in the rear. If/when the time comes to replace the "cube" or the SU pumps I won't hesitate to put the Carter in place. All these are Weber DCOE equipped.

Another advantage of electric ones is: mount a switch somewhere out of sight but reachable, you have both a built-in safety and anti-theft device.

The Lotus engines were originally fitted with the AC mechanical pumps, BTW.

 

[Tinster]

Red- my two cents based upon for 4 years TR6 ownership
and dozens of breakdowns.

I have a splendid rebuilt original mechanical fuel pump that was
gifted to me by a generous BCF member................

after 6 foreign made, new mechanical pumps failed on me.

I vote for a quality rebuild of an original mechanical pump.

BUT due to my bad experiences, I also hard wired a Facet electric
pump(1) in the engine compartment complete with
(2)on/off switch, a length of (3) hose to reach the carbs and
(4)quick connect into the carb lines hose plus hose clamps.

I pull the out-go off the mechanical pump and attach it to
the Facet intake and fuel line from fuel tank.

So far, 4000+ miles on the rebuilt original pump...and counting.

Dale(Tinster)

 

[LBCs_since_1988]

My preference is for a rebuilt original. Better construction than the repros and has a priming lever.

My Moss repro has a priming lever. 3500 trouble-free miles on it and counting.

 

[Geo Hahn]

My Moss repro has a priming lever. 3500 trouble-free miles on it and counting.

Shhhhh don't let it hear you say that. Does the Moss version secure the pin that the lever hinges on with little circlips or is it a press fit? That, along with the securing of the check valves were the weak points with the repros I had.

...I have a splendid rebuilt original mechanical fuel pump...after 6 foreign made, new mechanical pumps failed on me.

But the originals were foreign made. Shoot, my whole car is foreign made! Okay, I know what you mean -- there's Coventry and then there's 'other'.

 

[sail]

Ok shhh, I have the Moss and although its kinda dark out there there are clips on the outside of the lever pin. Can't say about the valves as it is on the car but when I took it out of the box it just looked like a quality unit as opposed to the chia pump from the other guys.

 

[DrEntropy]

If it has the circlips it'll likely be FINE.

 

[RedTR3]

I had to revive this thread to close it out - based on what I read, I decided on an original AC rebuild. I found a crappy old one on eBay, bought it and sent to "Then and Now" Automotive for rebuild...the pic shows the finished product. I wish I had taken a "before" pic to show the difference. Looking forward to installing this!

 

[6TTR3A]

I hope they included an oil seal in their rebuild.
FRank

 

[Andrew Mace]

... as opposed to the <span style="text-decoration: underline">chia</span> pump from the other guys.

Is that the pump with the green mossy stuff growing on the outside?