TR6 Throttle/Carb issues 73 TR-6

[ringo1]

-I’m trying to get my 1973 Tr6 with Stombergs ready for sale an fix issues that have developed since replacing my interior.
-I corrected my sticking throttle by loosening the nut to the front carbs Idle Cam by a 1/4 turn.
-The car was then running fairly well in the garage after this. I still need to tune the carbs since installing the Moss Fast Street Cam and Advanced Distributer distributer rebuild.
-I started by cleaning the rusty springs and connector lever (throttle to carb shafts) and greasing the ball and socket for the threaded rod from throttle to connector lever.
-Upon reassembly I cannot get the connector lever to run parallel with the carb shafts (see photo) and the car needed almost full choke to run.
-I adjusted the connector link slot with 3/32” drill bit. That has put the threaded rod/connector link almost over the shafts instead of to the side as before. The car know needs just a little choke to run.
-it seems to me that having the linkage cockeyed can’t be good. I’m not very proficient at carb work so please be clear (idiot proof) when describing carb parts and procedures. Thanks for any help.

 

[NutmegCT]

Difficult to see in that photo, but I think one or both of the S-curve "springs" on either end of the connector shaft are bent and/or stretched out of shape.

 

[ringo1]

Difficult to see in that photo, but I think one or both of the S-curve "springs" on either end of the connector shaft are bent and/or stretched out of shape.

They looked unchanged from removal to reinstall, but perhaps I bent them on install. I’ll pull them off again and see how they look now.
Thanks

 

[poolboy]

The throttle shafts don't look like they line up.....maybe it's just the picture, but if the throttle shaft are not lining up, you need to find out why,

 

[ringo1]

One of the “s” springs was a little out of whack. I got it straightened out and the connector to carb throttle shafts alignment is much better.
I shortened the connector rod between throttle assembly and the carb shafts and adjusted almost all gap out from the connector lever (between the “s” springs).
The car will not run without some choke and I need that to start tuning. Where do I go from here? I don’t want to mess with more than I have to, when it was running reasonably before.

 

[Gliderman8]

Do you have the same insulator blocks in each carb?
From your pic the insulator block on the right carb (in pic) looks like a different thickness from the one on the left. If they are different that would cause the shafts to be out of alignment.

 

[NutmegCT]

For the "needs choke" problem, you might want to reset the carbs from scratch, as well as check for vacuum leaks. Big leak = too much air for too little fuel - and thus the need for choke to "enrich" the mixture. When was the last time the carbs were adjusted and vacuum leaks checked?

 

[ringo1]

Do you have the same insulator blocks in each carb?
From your pic the insulator block on the right carb (in pic) looks like a different thickness from the one on the left. If they are different that would cause the shafts to be out of alignment.

I did notice that and they are slightly different even though they were new when carbs were rebuilt. I loosened one without creating a vacuum leak and tighten the other. That brought them closer to parallel.
Thank you

 

[ringo1]

For the "needs choke" problem, you might want to reset the carbs from scratch, as well as check for vacuum leaks. Big leak = too much air for too little fuel - and thus the need for choke to "enrich" the mixture. When was the last time the carbs were adjusted and vacuum leaks checked?

 

[ringo1]

They were tuned at a shop, but not that well. All the car has done since is sit, other than an occasional start up in the garage while I replaced the interior. I checked for vacuum leaks-none present. I adjusted the idle screws so I could push the choke home. From here I will start tuning as per Wade Lester’s Tr250 Tr6 carb overhaul procedures. I’ll be shocked if I don’t need some more help here!
Thank you

 

[Madflyer]

It's a time honored task to do it twice. That's no help for sure. How did you check for Vac leaks?? Many points float levels, oil in crabs to correct level, Diaphragms good, is the gas old??

 

[ringo1]

Carbs were rebuilt by me to spec, oil removed for tuning, good diaphragms, fresh gas. All vacuum lines visually inspected and joints sprayed with carb cleaner with no effect on rpm.
Next up, play with timing. I did not install the new cam and rebuilt distributer.

 

[ringo1]

Here’s where I’m at today:
-checked my points-good gap, marked TDC, ran car to warm checked for vacuum leaks again with propane- no leaks, still could not get it to run w/o choke.
-decided after lunch I would see if adjusting distributer advance would make any difference.
-ran car to warm and it ran w/o choke- no changes were made!
-got idle to a non-steady 850rpm, car would stall occasionally.
-turned distributer a smidge left and would stall. Various amounts to right a little more rough running.
-And the real head scratcher, used the timing light and can’t see my white TDC mark. Turns out it’s about 3”-4” below the pointer clockwise facing front of engine???

 

[ringo1]

I almost forgot the vacuum gauge from intake, if I remember correctly was reading 7Hg.
And I can’t get the car to run w/o choke again!!!

 

[TuffTR250]

I have seen several forum entries saying that it usually requires an idle at about 1100 rpm with anything but a stock cam. With the Moss Fast Street cam I would expect it to NOT idle very well, or at all, at 850 rpm. I have to set my TR250 to idle at 1100 rpm.
Bob

 

[ringo1]

-So would I kick my idle to 1100 rpm and turn distributer to what seems to run best?
-It still leaves me concerned with why my timing light is showing my timing about 90 degrees from BTDC.

 

[TuffTR250]

I recommend that you post a picture of your distributor with the cap off so we can see how it is setting in the car, and which direction the rotar is facing. Also post a picture showing where you have the vacuum gauge connected to the "intake".
Bob

 

[ringo1]

The attached photos are my timing marker, the distributer and the vacuum gauge hook up. All with car at TDC of compression stroke

 

[TuffTR250]

The rotar is supposed to be pointing at the #1 piston when #1 piston is at TDC.
Bob

 

[ringo1]

How do I fix that?
Thank you for the help