TR2/3/3A Stator Tube Wires

[JFS]

What is the proper way to connect the small gauge horn and trafficator wires to the wire harness located on the inner fender? These small wires were spliced onto larger gauge wires with soldered bullet connectors that connected to the harness. I had to cut them at the splices to pull them through the stator tube to remove the control head. Were the small gauge wires originally soldered to the bullet connectors? Seems that they would break when plugging or unplugging. The four bullets probably could pass through the tube if wire lengths were staggered.

 

[trglory]

The wire lengths should be staggered. Furthermore, these wires, especially the horn wire carry a fair amount of current, so splices around the stator tube are a disaster waiting to happen. Sounds like you need a new sub-harness. Check with British Wiring.

 

[JFS]

Joe, the splices were up near the harness nowhere near the tube and the wires are long enough to reach the harness. The wires themselves are in very good condition as is their protective sheath. Were they originally soldered into regular bullet connectors?

 

[JFS]

I found a photo of a replacement stator harness at British Wiring. It shows the small gauge wires staggered in length and directly connected to what appear to be regular bullet connectors. I will trim and solder bullets accordingly, but am still concerned about their fragility when plugging and unplugging into the vehicle harness.

 

[TFB]

I found a photo of a replacement stator harness at British Wiring. It shows the small gauge wires staggered in length and directly connected to what appear to be regular bullet connectors. I will trim and solder bullets accordingly, but am still concerned about their fragility when plugging and unplugging into the vehicle harness.

The wires in the stator tube have thin insulation so they look thin but I think you will find they will be fine for whatever connector you chose to tie into the harness.
Tom

 

[TR3driver]

Just for clarity, Yes, the original wires had bullet connectors soldered to them. As noted, the wire lengths were staggered so the bullets were not adjacent when pulling through the tube.

It's best to have some kind of support near the bullet (I use needle nose pliers, but ISTR British Wiring sells a special tool) when inserting or removing them from the sleeves. But only very rarely have I had a wire break even when not using the pliers. If it does, solder or crimp a new bullet in place and go on.

A little silicone spray will help keep the vinyl sleeve covers flexible as well as making it easier to R&R the bullets.

 

[trglory]

I can't see what you have there so maybe it's not as bad as I thought. You may be able to reuse what you have without any problem. It's a matter of personal preference, but if you're not sure and have everything apart, now it the time to replace it.

 

[Geo Hahn]

On the subject of bullets -- I used to solder them until I tried this bad boy:

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=101711&SortOrder=110

Not cheap (okay it's expensive) but an excellent tool and a very secure connection -- quickly and easily.

 

[JFS]

Thanks all for your replies. I have staggered the ends and soldered new bullet connectors. The joints appear to be adequately strong. As suggested, I usually use needle nose pliers to insert or remove bullet connectors. I will plug them into the harness next. (The olive/nut on the steering box appears to be leaking . . . needs more tightening.)

 

[JFS]

George, Thanks for the link. A couple of my soldered bullets pulled apart after being plugged into the harness. I don't need the frustration. I ordered your "bad boy" crimper kit. Hope it's bad to the bone.