TR2/3/3A Tr3a stator tube

[ekamm]

I pulled my stator tube today. I knew that it was broken and I am rebuilding the steering box. I wanted to show a few pictures of it just because to this point it has been a bit mysterious to me. It's really hard to get this whole thing in the picture. It also is not the straightest thing in the world. Is that going to be an issue trying to get it back in? I am assuming that the bend coincides with the union between the two shafts. You can see where the bend was rubbing.
My other question is why does it break? I assume that most everyone breaks in that same spot. Don Elliot if you read this I remember you saying that you had mig welded yours back together. Any pointers on getting it straight?
Also the last picture show an unusual ballooned piece. there are two and I assume that this keeps the tube centered.

 

[TR3driver]

I'd want to straighten it out, just because of the rubbing. Combined with the break, it might make more sense to just buy a new one.

IMO they break mostly because the turn signal mechanism starts binding, and the tube (right at the bottom of the slot) is the weakest link. I doubt that was intentional, but at the same time I wouldn't want to beef it up, just in case the turn mechanism did bind and prevent turning the wheel.

The lantern springs are original, they help keep the stator tube from rattling against the steering shaft. Don't know if anyone sells them today, but they used to be unobtanium.

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha Eric,

The "balloon" piece is also known as an anti-rattle piece, it centers the tube and keeps it from rattling against the steering column. I only have experience with single piece columns, which has two options, fixed steering wheel and adjustable wheel. The difference in regard to the stator tube is that on the adjustable wheel there is a slot in the steering wheel end of the stator tube to allow a tab on the inside of the control head tube to move up and down the tube. It is about 3 to 4 inches long. It corresponds to the range of adjustment, close up to too close. I believe the fixed wheel control head slips over the stator tube and is held in place with a tapered fit.

If you decide not to repair the stator tube, Macy's Garage offers them in stainless steel here:

https://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/other_tr2_3_parts.htm#TR2/3%20Stator%20Tube

 

[TR3driver]

I believe the fixed wheel control head slips over the stator tube and is held in place with a tapered fit.

Nope, it uses a slot very similar to the adjustable version, only the slot and the piece on the back of the control head are much shorter.

I don't have a shot of the stator tube handy, but here's one that shows the short tube that slides over the end of the stator tube, with the fixed steering wheel.

 

[toysrrus]

Hi There ekamm,

Man, Your a "Day Late & Dollar Short" as the saying goes. I posted my Stator Tube (Orig for a `57 Non-Adjustable) wheel here in the classifieds a couple of wks. ago. All that it needed was to remove the wiring harness. It sold on Ebay in nothing flat!!

I surely would replace the one you have. "Macys Garage" sells them for approx. $60.00 + shipping for a Stainless one.

Best Wishes,

Russ

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

I have two stator tubes kicking around but I think that shipping them would be very difficult.....

I don't need mine as I have gone to a rack and pinion conversion.

Cheers,
David

 

[ekamm]

I think that mine is usable. The bend is slight and shouldn't be too bad to get close. Welding the break isn't a deal breaker either as long as care is taken to get it straight(I'll have to come up with some kind of jig). As I thought it through the shaft will come out fairly straight out of the column shaft and in to the box. But I might have to guide it a bi the last part to get it out of the hole in the box. A thorough cleaning of everything and some lubrication will help a lot.

 

[CJD]

Hey Eric,

You should have seen the look on my face when I pulled my steering column...my first TR3, and I had no idea that 5 foot long tube was in there! The column just kept stretching!

Back to your problem...I don't think you can get the stator new. At least I have not had any luck finding a replacement. So, it's a matter of used or fixing what you have. If you choose to weld, it is an easy and quick job for an experienced welder. It is tricky, however. The tube is small with narrow gage walls. I guess I am trying to say it is not a good beginner job. I personally would oxy/acetalyne weld it...as that kind of welding is very forgiving. If you mig, you will have to guess at heat and wire speed...and there's not much tube to test on.

That said...I see no reason from your pictures that you cannot straighten and weld what you have. I would guess that the bend is simply from the removal...I know mine was. If the two columns were that miss-aligned, the tube would have broken there long ago from fatigue.

John

 

[TFB]

Macys garage advertises the SS tubes for $60.I bought Russ's tube on ebay,and it is a nice original,but removing the wires is turning into a bigger job than expected.Tried drilling out with jobber bit,but hit a spot that feels like its made of diamonds.Tried heat and lube,but no movement.Any ides apprecaited.
Tom

 

[ekamm]

As I look at it it looks very similar to steel brake/fuel line? I like the ideas of gas welding. I once new an older man many years ago that used coat hanger to weld with. I still have some of the things he made and that stuff has held up better than a lot of other welding. He also was a body shop guy/ car fabricator. I might practice on some old steel line. I am a fair welder but not a pro by any means.

 

[TR3driver]

but I think that shipping them would be very difficult.....

I buy similar things frequently, and at least USPS has no problem with them. MMC uses heavy cardboard tubes, but I'm guessing that a piece of PVC pipe would work and be only a bit more expensive. Or just strap it to a length of 1x2 lumber.

 

[TR3driver]

Welding the break isn't a deal breaker either as long as care is taken to get it straight

Don't forget, you'll need to grind the inside diameter of the tube back to size.

 

[ekamm]

I did think of the inside and outside of tube grinding, at least it is close to the end so it should be doable. I'm sure that the O.D. tolerance is pretty close.

 

[bnw]

I stuck a wooden pencil in mine and brazed it. Less heat, no brass inside. Just make sure the control head moves freely so it doesn't happen again

 

[ekamm]

I certainly considered the brazing approach. Wasn't sure that it would be strong enough but as you suggested it shouldn't have to hold up to much force. Maybe the correct diameter dowel.
On a side note I want to replace the felt bush int he top of the column, will I have to pull the steering wheel and what is the best way to do that. Also have heard of lubricating with some moly(dry?). Wouldn't some graphite powder work.

 

[smdichter]

I bought a new stator tube from Macy's Garage and it worked perfecly. The latern springs, which I saved from my old tube, in case anyone needs them, are replaced on the new tube with something a lot more modern, two rubberized sleeves. I screwed around with my orignal broken tube off and on for abount 34 years, eventually making a slotted inner sleeve to fit the two halves together and then crimping the stator tub halves against the inner sleeve. It worked after a fashion but the new tube is much easier. Getting the wire down the rebuit tube with the sleeve was no easy task.