Restoring MG Frame

[EinsteinsDad]

I've sandblasted my MGDT frame inside and out (as best I can inside the box steel frame). I've replaced the portions that were rusted through and I've sprayed the whole thing with 3 coats of POR-15 and finished it with chaise black topcoat. Because of the shape of the frame there are many placed where it could hold water. I found mice nests in the tubing, etc.

I am thinking of filling all the hollow area of the frame with either spray polyurethane foam or expanding epoxy flotation foam. My hope is that it would 1) eliminate the collection of moisture and dirt in the frame, and 2) add stiffness to the frame particularly in areas where I removed a lot of rust and the metal is thiner and weaker.

Has any body tried this or have any thoughts?

Thanks

 

[Steve]

I wouldn't recommend that course of action. If water gets inside the frame (even condensation) the foam tends to hold it there and it never dries out.... and should the frame need further repairs that foam will be a pig to get rid of. Where the frame is thinner and weaker, some welded metal patches would be better and stronger.

For the inside of the box sections I would recommend using a sprayed cavity wax such as Waxoyl or the equivalent. It will stifle any surface rust still inside the frame (and there WILL be some) and prevent moisture from settling on unprotected steel. It's also self-healing, so if it should creep into nooks and crannies.

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Doc had a response to a thread a while back about fiberglass mat:

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...ized#Post632354

Might be helpful.

Mickey

 

[Grantura_MKI]

I sandblast and powder coat all T series chassis'. The product will find places that paint will not. Would not seal any of the tube areas, as you want the water, etc. to find it's way out. Chances are that your vehicle will never see foul weather in the future.
Cheers,
D.

 

[Britishautobody]

I believe Steve has the right idea.Hard to argue with his good reasoning.I would also use the same approach.

Cheers!

 

[Steve_S]

I agree about avoiding foam filler because of water retention. The beauty of POR15 is that it's so thin that you can get it way inside all the nooks and crannies of the frame. It will flow pretty well and give good coverage. Honestly I wouldn't worry about moisture getting in there if you've done a thorough job with the POR15, especially since you've sprayed rather than brushed.

 

[Grantura_MKI]

Your "new" POR 15 only covers as mush as your brush will apply. It is far less $$ to powder coat. Trust me...be there done that!
Cheers,
D.

 

[PAUL161]

How do they put a T series chassis in an oven? Doesn't powder coat need high heat to cure? I'm contemplating this for my TF frame.PJ

 

[swift6]

Some powder coaters have very large ovens. Check around.

 

[Grantura_MKI]

You need to find a large commercial firm. One that does side walk railing, etc. I am luck to live in an area with many, as sand rail builders are every where and they love powder coating.
Cheers,
D.

 

[JPSmit]

I suppose if you cut it into foot long lengths....

 

[PAUL161]

I suppose if you cut it into foot long lengths....

Son of a gun JP, I never thought of that! Sure would help the storage problem.

 

[JPSmit]

see, if they can do it with boats.... you can with cars

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