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Pertronix Flame Thrower Electronic Distributor Que

M

Mike

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Has anyone installed the Pertronix Flame Thrower Distributor with the electronic ignition? I have concluded that my fuel issue is an electrical issue. I have just about replaced everything else so I think my original distributor has had it! I have the 1275 series A engine.

Thanks.

Mike
 

dklawson

Yoda
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I think many people here have installed the Pertronix Ignitor. I have usually seen the term "Flamethrower" used when people talk about their line of ignition coils.

I had the Pertronix on my Mini (also a 1275 A-series) but removed it when I wanted to experiment with a totally different distributor. I still have a Pertronix in our GT6. They are easy to install and set up. They are fairly reliable. You will hear stories of them failing. The most common mistakes are wiring them incorrectly (either reverse polarity or connecting to a supply less than 12V). The other common failure mode is to leave the ignition turned on for a prolonged time without the engine running. They do not like to sit idle like that and will overheat.

However, Pertronix is not a fix for ignition problems elsewhere. Make sure you can get your regular points ignition operating properly before switching to Pertronix. Once you fit the Pertronix, don't be tempted to leave the timing set the way it was. At least check it with a light once the module is installed.
 

texas_bugeye

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I have the flame thrower distributor with the pointless module.
Before you do anything make darn sure your coil setup is compatable it needs to be a Ballasted Coil. Some coils have a label telling you if it is some dont. If there is no marking indicating the primary resistance Disconnect the leads to the coil and check the resistane with the Ohm Meter acros the + and - post's It should be 3 OHm"s. If it"s not It is not a ballasted coil, and you will need a Ballast resistor. Easy fix they can be had at most auto parts store's. Or if your coil is of unknow age this is an opertunity to upgrade to one with more punch and all ready ballasted.
Mine dizzy works best with ported vacume. Port on my front HS2 Carb.
Adjust the timming.
And Like the Pitchmen say: SET IT AND FORGET IT.
Curve is generic but seems to be fine with my mild 948 setup.

Not sure which iteration you are looking at but the early units dont like being powered with out the engine running .
So dont go parking with your lady and leave the radio on or you really will be broke down and home late.
 
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Mike

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Chris:

I glad you pointed out the ballasted versus not. Moss Motors recommends the Lucus Sport Coil which is for a non ballasted system for the Flame Thrower. What a learning process!

Thanks,

Mike
 

texas_bugeye

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I've had mine for a couple years now and kind of forget I even have it any more.
A bunch of guys say to carry a set of points or in my case and yours should you chose to go this route carry a spare dizzy in your roll of tools and spares.
Why I'm not sure seems like al the failures I've heard are from Install OOP's

After there in and set I dont think they are prone to failure any more than the ignition in my Camry.

Way back when the english cabs were required to have hand cranked wipers in there cabs in case the electric broke down.
Rolls Royce had cars that had a distributor and a magneto in case it failed.
Cars had hand cranks in case the starter failed.
See where I'm going with this?
 

jvandyke

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I've heard of the magnet ring loosing pieces or something, never had a Pertronix so don't know first hand. I like my XR700 so far though.
 

dklawson

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I'd like to make a minor point here so you don't get the wrong coil.

Do not refer to a 3-Ohm coil as "ballasted". A 3-Ohm coil is a standard coil, sometimes referred to as a 12V coil. People often say they are "internally ballasted". In truth there is no internal ballast resistor... there are just windings. However, if you tell a sales clerk that you want a "ballasted coil" they are very likely to come back with a coil for a ballasted ignition system. That type of coil will have a primary resistance between 1-2 Ohms.

If you have any doubts, buy a Pertronix coil at the same time you buy the Ignitor module. That way you'll know they are compatible. Traditionally, the best online prices for Pertronix components can be found at RetroRockets

Regarding carrying spares, putting your old points and condenser in a zip-lock bag in the boot is cheap insurance. If you do have a Pertronix failure, putting the points in by the side of the road isn't too hard and much better than walking home.

EDIT:
Regarding Moss' recommendation for a "non-ballasted sports coil", that's correct. When they refer to it as "not-ballasted" of "not for ballasted ignitions" , they mean it's a standard coil and NOT for use with ballasted ignition systems. I know it's just semantics, but it's an example of exactly what I am warning about above.
 
Country flag
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The coil I'm using with my pertronix says (on the coil) "do not use with an external ballast".
 

tdskip

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So to summarize - and for future reference - is this the correct matrix which is OK.

1) Pertronix coil w/ Pertronix Ignitor

2) Internally ballasted Lucas Sport Coil w/ Pertronix Ignitor

3) Non-ballasted coil, with ballast resistor and Pertronix Ignitor

Yes/no?
 

dklawson

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tdskip said:
So to summarize - and for future reference - is this the correct matrix which is OK.

1) Pertronix coil w/ Pertronix Ignitor
2) Internally ballasted Lucas Sport Coil w/ Pertronix Ignitor
3) Non-ballasted coil, with ballast resistor and Pertronix Ignitor

Yes/no?

Semantics again. Sorry.
There is no internal ballast. It's a description that will get you into trouble when you buy parts. I also believe there are currently at least two if not three versions of the Lucas Sports Coil. I don't know enough about them to discuss which is suitable for Pertronix.

Regardless I would rephrase your list as:
1) Pertronix coil w/ Pertronix Ignitor
2) Standard 3-Ohm Coil w/ Pertronix Ignitor
3) Ballast coil, with ballast resistor and Pertronix Ignitor

Option #3 is a more complicated version of #2. The important distinction between #2 & #3 is that with option #3 the Pertronix "red" wire no longer goes to coil (+) but now must be connected to a switched +12v supply.
 

tdskip

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Last post - I think - on this. To be even more specific;


Safe harbor for a Pertronix Ignitor is;

1) Pertronix coil w/ Pertronix Ignitor
2) 3.0 Ohm Coil w/ Pertronix Ignitor
3) 1.5 Ohm Coil ww/ a ballast resistor in the circut and Pertronix Ignitor

The Lucas Sport coil evidential is available in both Ohms, but most commonly in 1.5 Ohm version which will fry your Ignitor if you don't put an external ballast resistor in the circuit.


Did I get that right?
 

dklawson

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That sounds right to me.

Just remember if you do use a ballast ignition system, you need to connect the Pertronix RED wire BEFORE the ballast resistor. That means... to a switched 12V source and/or perhaps directly to the ignition switch.
 
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