Front Shock Replacement and Early BJ-7 Brake Pads

[gonzo]

I just purchased a set of remanufactured front shocks (World-Wide Parts)for the BJ-7 and plan to install them today. I understand that the front suspension must be preloaded before the shock clamp and upper trunnion bolts are tightened. Jackstands were placed under the spring pan to take load off the shocks but it still doesn't appear to have the 2 inch clearance required to place a wedge between the shock arms and the mount to set preload. Any suggestions?

While doing this work I happened to check the condition of the from brake pads. What's the minimumally acceptable thichness of front brake pads- mine are approx. 1/8 to 3/16 inches. Are there uprated disc brake pads for early model BJ-7? The discs were new when installed several years ago, so they have never been turned. With chance for warped discs etc., would it be false economy to turn rotors rather than replace with new when doing the brakes? Thanks, GONZO /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

 

[Dave Russell]

Re: Front Shock Replacement and Early BJ-7 Brake P

Hi Gonzo,
The jack stands need to be placed as far out on the lower A arms as possible to take advantage of the lever ratios involved. Stands under the outer end of the A arms will give almost twice the leverage to compress the spring to the proper amount as jacks would under the spring pans.

I have no opinion on the brakes.
D

 

[bob hughes]

The idea of preload with the 2 inch spacer is to position the suspension during the assembly of the lower arms / shocker arms and king pin as it would be, once it is in operation, to prevent the rubber bushes from being damaged, you can use the spring pan to set the relationship of the lower arms, but remove iot once all is set up to get the spring in. The installation of the coil spring and pan can take place afterwards. To dismantle the spring, I have supported the chasis on stands, positioned a small trolley jack under the spring pan and jacked it up to take the weight of the car, released the four bolts holding the pan to the lower arms and gently lowered the jack to release the spring. Installation is the reverse but use long high tensile threaded rods and nuts to guide the pan up into the correct position as you compress the spring, change over to the correct bolts one at a time.
Regarding pads, the G14 calipers can be changed to the G16 metric caliper as a straight swap these are similar to those on the BJ8 but fit onto the BJ7 adaptor plate, these are much better units, other than grades of material I do not think that you can do much with the G14. It has been suggested that reshaping the G16 pads with a grinder could be an option but I would not do it myself. If you have not got one, a servo unit tends to increase the braking capacity, but you do need to change the master cylinder as well to a smaller bore. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif

 

[Dave Russell]

Re: Front Shock Replacement and Early BJ-7 Brake P

Bob,
Why would you go to all the trouble to release the spring pads. Replacing the shocks only requires supporting the frame on stands & jacking the outer end of the lower arms up a couple of inches, loosening one shock arm clamp, loosening the center A arm joining bolt, removing the upper trunion bolt, & removing the shock. Installation of a new shock is the reverse. Before final tightening the shock mount bolts, & tightening the upper trunion bolt to compress the upper bushings, set the jack that is under the outer end of the lower A arm to give about two inches of rebound clearance, shock arm to bumper, & final tighten all bolts. No need to release the springs.

I think the original problem was that he could not get enough spring compression due to having the jack under the spring pan instead of under the outer end of the A arm. There is about twice the spring compression leverage this way. Without the leverage, jacking under the pan only lifts the whole car instead of compressing the spring. I just went through this whole drill a week ago.
D

 

[bob hughes]

Re: Front Shock Replacement and Early BJ-7 Brake P

Dave, I can see your point, I did go round the houses a bit. My experience came from needing to adjust the shims under the top trunion, did all as you suggested, and for me, I needed to get the trunion off, could not, and ended up rebuilding the whole front suspension, kingpins and all.

Bob
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

By the way, The metric G16 calipers I have mentioned, are reconditioned units that were originally on early Ford Capris and Granadas in Britain. They are not the G16 fitted to the BJ8s though they have the same pads.

 

[gonzo]

Re: Front Shock Replacement and Early BJ-7 Brake P

Dave and Bob:

Thanks for your suggestions. I was able to perform preload adjustment as described by lifting at the outer end of the lower control arms. Took the Healey for a test-drive and plan re-check shock mount bolts and trunions later this week. Always a good idea when front-end work is performed.

I've determined that the brakes are fine as they are - stops straight and even with no lock-ups - but will consider the recommended upgrade as a future project.

Thanks again. GONZO /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif