TR2/3/3A Cracked Block???

[Kleykamp]

I had engine heating problems so began a head gasket replacement project. I discovered after removing head and gasket that there is a hairline crack that runs from the front of the water jacket of the first cylinder, into the first interior head stud hole, then from the stud hole to the "rectagular" opening for the push rods. I'm thinking maybe a short block would be the cheapest,most efficient route, but I'm seeking input from people more knowledgable than myself. The engine was starting and running. Also, I may have lightened and/or shortened after market push rods and have some concerns about keeping geometry correct. This car may have been "raced" at some time in it's life and not sure if other mods may be present. It had a exhaust "cutout" on it when I first got it. Really! Suggestions?

 

[TR3driver]

"short block" implies crank, pistons, etc. My suggestion would be to replace just the cylinder block itself, and keep all the other stuff (assuming you don't find any other problems when you get it apart). Shouldn't be too hard to find a bare block in good condition for not much money, as they typically outlast the cars. But make sure it has the right main bearing caps with it; as they aren't interchangeable unless you have it line-bored (which quickly gets to be more than a good used block is worth).

 

[Kleykamp]

Randall, Thanks for input. Removing the head is as far as I have ever been into an engine. I am pretty hesitant to get into rods, bearings, timing chains,oil pumps,mainbearings, cylinder liners and so on. I'm afraid having someone do that work would be cost prohibitive for me and thought the short block would avoid alot of those issues. I have pulled an engine twice. I also know that with a short block I may just be buying another set of issues or more of the same. I would probably wear this forum out if I tried to build a block though. I guess the worst that could happen is that I would end up with two boat anchors instead of one. On a side note no's.1&3 pistons have alot of chips in the tops. The cylinder walls look good though and the car actually ran pretty well and did not smoke before I started this...just got hot. It was never overheated while I was driving but who knows what the PO did to it.

 

[MDCanaday]

I would say you need a nice used block,this crack will be worse when torqued down as
the strain on the stud spreads it. You see it more on raced motors as higher compression
takes a toll over time. The good news is that they are easy to come by and not too pricey.
I think its more fun to build one right than to buy a re-man shorty, that way you know what you have.
MD(mad dog)

 

[sammyb]

Very unusual for a TR block to crack. Unlucky, to say the least. The heads are prone to developing cracks (usually in totally harmless places), but I can't remember the last time I heard of a crack in the block.

 

[TR4nut]

I think its more fun to build one right than to buy a re-man shorty, that way you know what you have.
MD(mad dog)

Couldn't agree more MD! Only thing more fun than building them is starting them up for the first time!

 

[mikephillips]

For these vintage cars finding a reman short block is going to be a matter of luck as you're most likely going to find only used engines which you'll want to tear down and redo anyway. Good documentation and a machine shop you can trust can make it better than new. Yes it can cost, but better to put some bucks into it and know where you're starting out than risk doing it again a couple years or less down the road.