TR2/3/3A TR2/3 Oil Leak Where Oil Sending Pipe Connects to the Block

[1955TR2]

I am encountering an oil leak problem that should be simple to fix but has me stumped.

I recently got my car back after some body and mechanical work was done on it which included an engine rebuild and reconnecting the oil sending unit. There is a fairly significant oil leak coming from where the oil sending pipe connects to the block. My initial thought was someone may not have installed the copper washers correctly because there is an inner and outer washer. I ordered new inner and outer copper washers from Moss and today I replaced these two washers and triple-checked I installed them in the correct order. I also replaced the stud end cap at the same time. Unfortunately, when I started the car to test if this fixed the leak to my surprise the leak is still there. I double-checked the tightness of the cap and retested but it's still leaking.

Does anyone have any ideas how to stop this leak/what might be causing this to still be leaking? Thank you.

 

[CJD]

Is it possible the stud is too long...allowing the nut to bottom before it is tight on the banjo?

 

[1955TR2]

I did wonder about that.

 

[mctriumph]

It is not unheard of for the nut to crack if the stud is too long. Double check the banjo
for a cracked joint where the line is brazed.
Mad dog

 

[1955TR2]

Thank you Mad dog...either of these suggestions could be what is causing the leak and I need to investigate.

 

[broken wrench]

When I built my 3 motor on startup I had that leak. It turned out that the stud was not so much to long, I just hadn't installed it all of the way in. Removed it, cleaned everything, re-installed it, and all was well.

Steve

 

[1955TR2]

Hi. I was able to finally fix the problem.
First, I ordered a new banjo and pipe. Next, when I installed the new banjo and pipe I added a second outer washer just in case, as in your situation, I wasn't getting enough pressure on the inner washer for it to seal properly. I also applied a thin coat of Permatex Aviation sealant to all of the washers. I'm not sure which of these things, or if it was a combination of everything, resolved the issue I was having, but I can happily say the leaking issue has been fixed!

 

[Sarastro]

I am continually frustrated by things like this that should seal, but don't. I had a continuing problem with the screws in the oil gallery, on the side of the engine, leaking. New copper washers didn't help, and I even put the screws in a lathe and turned down the mating surfaces. The surfaces in the block were smooth and unscratched. I eventually sealed it by doing pretty much what you did, new washers and a little Permatex Aviation sealant. Plus, a lot of torque.

60 PSI or so in the oil gallery ain't exactly the highest pressure ever recorded, but it is enough that the oil will doggedly find its way through any little scratch, unevenness, or other imperfection. I think you just have to keep trying things, as you did, until something works.

 

[CJD]

Glad you found the problem! Leaks like that on very old cars are often scratches or mars on the fittings. A copper gasket can only conform so far.