The first 2 pics look beautiful, Steve! What I can see from the lighting the bodywork is flawless...like looking at a mirror I can see your shop lighting entirely undestorted!
In the 3rd pic I do not think you will have any issue buffing that out. With 1 part enamel you do not want to buff until the paint has had several months to dry. If you are using a 2 part enamel, then follow the instructions for buffing, but it can usually be done within a day or two. For finish buffing:
Get a selection of wet sandpaper from 600 to 2000 grit. It will not take much, so just a sheet or two of each will finish the entire car. Using a hose for water (with tape around the tip to prevent scratching). Wet sand the panel by hand, no block, starting with 1000-2000 grit. Do not try to sand the edges, as they will cut through too easily, and don’t really show anyway. Concentrate on the large, flatish areas. Also don’t sand any closer to door handles, hinges, or sharp body lines than you can comfortably work the buffer later. Any sharp edge will cut very fast by the buffing pad alone, and needs no sanding. Use largish circular motions while sanding. No back and forth and no concentrating on a single spot.
Now, once you have given the entire panel a quick once over with the 1000-1500 grit, set up your lighting to look very closely. Dry areas, like in your 3rd pic, will still show, and will need a bit more work. For them, use the 600 grit, working very wet and in circular motions. Be very careful not to get any dirt or grit under the paper, as it will make a mess on a fresh finish...and that is why you use a hose instead of a bucket...lots of cleaning water! Gradually work the 600 grit over the dry or otherwise “not perfect” areas, extending a good foot or two around the bad area to prevent “cupping” right at the bad spot. Once it is almost sanded out...but not all the way!!, then switch to 1000 grit to remove the marks from the 600. Then use 1500 to remove the marks from the 1000...and finish with 2000 grit. You will get a feel how much to leave at the 600 sanding, so by the time you work the area to 2000 grit the dry patch is only barely visible. Always leave just a bit of dry area for the buffer to finish out. If you go too far, you cut through and have to respray...obviously not fun! It is better to stop too soon, as you can always do the process a second (or third) time if needed, rather than cut through all the paint and have to respray.
After the sanding with the 1500-2000 grit, the surface will look glossy already! Dry off your panel and inspect it. Any bad areas should be almost perfect....but still be barely visible when you study it closely. Then it is time to buff.
Those orbital buffers take forever. I bought one once and threw it away. They are good for waxing a car, but takes forever for buffing one. The best buffers simply spin a 10-12” cotton pad and usually have 1200-2400 rpm settings. The 1200 speed keeps from spitting out your compound when you first put the buffer to it. The 2400 is for actual buffing. You do not hold the pad flat, but always have a very slight, like 5 degree angle, so that only one side of the pad is in contact with the surface. The buffer ALWAYS moves! It never stays still or it will cut into the panel and leave deep swirl marks. ALso, never press the buffer into the panel. No more pressure than the weight of the buffer will do the job, or you did not sand enough. Never buff the edges! The buffer will cut through a freshly painted edge in a couple seconds...way to fast to control. Only buff the main body of the panel up to the edge, but not over it. If you need to do an edge, best to do it by hand for best control without cutting through.
Use a buffing compound. I like 3m “Finesse”, which is available from most paint stores. Just squirt a few drops and buff over the area. If it seems the buffer stops cutting, then add a few more drops of polish and continue. When you are close, clean the buffer pad by spinning it upside down and use the tip of a blade screw driver to break up the build up of polishing compound, therebye re-exposing the bare cotton strings. Once the pad is clean and dry, make your final pass over the panel, using only VERY light pressure. This removes the last of the visible swirls.
Once your happy, finish with a good wax or silicone sealer.
Sorry so long winded. I never got around to buffing my TR2, so I never had a chance to cover that on the build thread. Maybe you can post your buffing experience for everyone to follow...!