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Waxoyl- How much is enough?

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I'm about done with my chassis repairs and will be Waxoyling (or Dinitrol) it and was wondering: how much is enough?

I'll be doing the main rails, the four outriggers, the central crucifix, the front and rear crossmembers, and the sills both inner and outer. I was going to wait until after the whole was painted, but is that necessary or advisable?

I reckon if its worth doing its worth over-doing, but some guidance would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
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james,i just kept putting it on till the car hit 5400 lbs /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif,tell me if you will,is "waxoyl" the black tar looking stuff that is applied with a brush,if it is my p.o. was extremely liberal with the application,its a pain to remove when doing repairs,he did everything including wheel wells springs all the pipes,fuel lines,brake lines excet.if he had not photo documented the stripping of the chassis and body panels,i would never have purchased it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 

Skip & Lynne

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My car had a ton of that stuff on it, I spent one entire Saturday and about 1,000 pounds of blasting sand to get rid of it. I went back with 2 coats of epoxy primer and then painted that stuff was just awful it looked like the chassis had been paved with asphalt.
 

Keoke

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Hi JW, Waxol is just Beeswax and thinners. Generally it require some heating to spray and spread correctly.Waxol can be applied after painting and is probably best done that way. I used a cheap dirtier method told in an article by one of the top restores in Europe. Find the dirtiest used motor oil you can find and treat all the closed frame members with it,It will spread like locust and leak like a sieve-but it stops the tin worm.---Keoke
 

Skip & Lynne

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Hi Keoke I used some stuff called tubeseal on the last airplane I did. The lower tubes are called longerons and I drilled a small hole in the top of the tube and injected it in with a large syringe and then welded the hole closed. On Lynnes car I opened the end of the exisitng frame rail and used a vacum and compressed air to clean it out then I used a thin mixture of epoxy primer and poured it in a rotated the chassis over and over to be sure it was all coated inside. Skip
 

Keoke

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Naw 7777, I think you and Skip ran into that good ole new world undercoat.Some of it is just like asphalt and another popular method actually used tar. Either one of them IMOP is worthless and a real bugger to remove.---Fwiw---Keoke
 

Skip & Lynne

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You might be right; you could dissolve the stuff that was on my car with kerosene but it made a terrible mess. I had to blast the chassis 2 times to get to white metal. You could see the rust that was underneath that stuff. It was totally useless because the left frame rail was totally rusted through in several places and just the tar was bridged over the holes. I don`t think I would ever use any of that stuff ever you can`t see what`s going on underneath, just my 2 cents worth . Skip /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif
 

Keoke

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"You can't see what's going on underneath".Thats so the tin worm can cut his teeth.---Keoke
 
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JamesWilson
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Thanks Everyone:

Its the insides of these that I'm treating- I'll leave the outsides with just the paint.

I'm aware that it sprays easier when heated, but I also understood that it can "bleed" from seams and may spoil any later paint- so that was the motive for waiti until after that.

I'll need to drill access holes in my new chassis- it has none at all now except for captive nuts.

I guess I'll just experiment on the open ends of the old chassis and see how much pressure to use and what rate to move the spray wand to get a good coating of the stuff.

Like so much else, I'm learning on the job.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 

Johnny

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A local car club member who also rebuilds airplanes told me of a "tried and true method" of preventing rust that was used in aircraft construction, and, it's quite inexpensive. It's "BOILED linseed oil". It can be purchased at any of the big box stores, such as Home Depot. It's about the consistency of thin motor oil but is completely clear. I tried it on a piece of channel iron and it did seem to work quite well. It left a clear shiny coat that seemed impervious to anything other than a sharp blow with a hammer. But if used inside a frame I think it would work well. It took forever to dry, about a week. Applying it might be a trick also.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

zblu

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Used something similar to the inside of the box sections Johnny, took some time for the aromatics to disperse, what was left was as you describe, applicators over here guarantee for 10 yrs, am more worried about the surreptitious rust you dont see on the inside than the outside, was a hose inserted with a spray nozzle, bout a gallon used, it dripped for a while!
 

Keoke

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AN it Sti i i i i ink---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

trfourtune

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waxoyl does not dry. it is the colour of Kilkenny Cream Ale /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif, very dark brown in the container. it is NOT black and does not go hard. my father (40 yrs bodyman) loves this stuff (he HATES rust!!!!) spray into everything underneath and into all seams and crevices. it should run out all over the place (it should be runny). that way it does not add much weight.
rob
 

John_Progess

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Where can you get this Waxoyl stuff? I have to make some frame repairs so I will have access to the insides. Thanks and have a good day!

John
 

jlaird

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Moss
 

Skip & Lynne

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I was just wondering how you plan to clean the inside of the frame rails. If you inject Waxoyl inside the frame rail and there is a large amount of dirt and rust you will only end up with big lumps of dirt and rust held togther by the Waxoyl. I replaced my left frame rail entirely but the right only needed the front half and when I opened them up there was an incredible amount of crud inside them. There was enough dirt inside the right frame rail to fill a gallon paint can. skip
 

Johnny

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[ QUOTE ]
I was just wondering how you plan to clean the inside of the frame rails.

[/ QUOTE ]

Interesting how to clean the frame rails. I remember reading where a fellow came up with the idea of taking a long piece of wire with various size nuts attached and fished it inside the rails. By attaching to a drill he was able to dislodge tons of stuff. Sounded kind of loud I bet. Then he took his shop vac and sucked until the cows came home. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 

Skip & Lynne

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I have cleaned the inside of gas tanks with a double handfull of 3/8ths nuts and tied the tank to the outside of a tractor wheel and turned it for several hours. Came out spotless.
 
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