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Waxoyl question/advise

SCguy

Jedi Warrior
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I bought a Waxoyl starter kit from Moss to spray the typical rust areas on my restored (clean) TR6. I've read the directions and it all seems straight forward enought. Does anyony have any advice for me before I start. Is just a started kit enough? Will it make a mess if I just get my car up on jack stands? What can I expect?
 

Steve

Moderator
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I don't know if there is a note to that effect with the product, but it is much easier to apply if you stand the can in warm water for a while before using it. Not too hot as you don't want it too runny, in which case it will leave a mess. Any cleanup required should be easily done using mineral spirits. Good product, does what is says it will. It has been around for a loooooong time.
 

Geo Hahn

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There is a good tech article on Waxoyl in the latest issue (Jan/Feb 06) of the 'MGB Driver' published by the North American MGB Register (NAMGBR). Not sure if they have it online but if you have any MGB friends left you might see if they get this pub.
 

Don Elliott

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The starter kit is all you need. If you find you need more, make your own. Buy some bees wax at any artist supply store, shave it down with a knife or a cheese grater and mix it with mineral spirits. Then fill it into the sprayer and as we say up here in French Canada, "voila".

I only used it inside the box sections of my frame and inside the sills, downd behind the "B" post rear quarter panel and up under the mud guards under the front fenders. I didn't use anything on the newly painted bottom or any other lower visibl area. That was back in 1990 and it's still as clean as new. But during the 87,000 miles since 1990, I haven't driven on any rocky or gravel roads.

See the attachment for the same thing I'm doing with the TR3A that I'm restoring now.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A

https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthreads/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/1919/ppuser/4127
 

jsneddon

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DNK

Great Pumpkin
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Don- I noticed you wrapped the header. Any preference over Ceramic coating?
 

Don Elliott

Obi Wan
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That's the way the car came when the owner sent it to me for restoration and that's what he wants on it when I finish it and get it back to him. He has the longer TR4 intake manifold and I'm wondering how the TR3A carb linkage will fit or if it will need modification. I'll be getting to that point in the next week or two.

Don Elliott
 

Geo Hahn

Yoda
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[ QUOTE ]
MG friends?

[/ QUOTE ]

This is kinda sad... our local all-marque club maintains a relationship with North American MGB Register to benefit from their insurance scheme. This requires 8 of our members to join NAMGBR to qualify for coverage. To enable us to meet that requirement I became a NAMGBR member. Had a little trouble answering some of the questions on the app... probably won't use the windscreen decal.

OTOH - the Jan/Feb edition of their very nice magazine was the 'tech issue' and contained quite a few very useful articles. Also got the list of roadside assistance contacts nationwide -- hey, any port in a storm!
 

CaptRoy

Jedi Hopeful
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Don,

I was also going to try the TR4 long manifold. Williams book says all that is needed is rerouting of a heater hose and fit a longer choke cable.. Please let me know how it goes..

Capt Roy
61 TR3A TS71469
 

jlaird

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Don,

Dumb question, lovely TR by the way, how did you finish the Alum on your engine? How did you get it so clean and is it finished with anything?
 

Don Elliott

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The only aluminium around the engine is the intake manifold the SU carbs and the thermostat housing. I buffed the SU's and sandblasted the others when I did my full body-off restoration from 1987 to 1990. See the attachment to see how it looked in 2005 after 85,000 miles since the restoration.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A
 
G

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Don,
Nothing more gorgeous to look at than a high mileage Triumph that still looks brand new. Now that is what it is all about. You've done a great job of maintaining that little beauty.

Bill
 

Don Elliott

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About 3 times a year, usually the morning of a TRA or VTR concours, I go to a coin operated car wash and blast it all under the car and fenders and in the engine compartment with the foamy soap followed by the high pressure rinse. That takes all the grime off the hard to reach areas. I don't even cover the distributor cap, the coil or the HT cables. And it always re-started. As for the outside, I also wash it about 6 times a summer with less than a thimbleful of detergent (Hertel) in 2 or 3 gallons of warm water and wash it clean, then I wipe it dry.

The black paint is BASF Urethane Acrylic (Ferrari Black) and that's the way it camme out the gun in 1999. It has never been wet sanded or buffed. The orange peel is hard to detect. I never lost points in a concours because of the orange peel because when the TRs left the factory they had original orange peel on the paint. I waxed it 3 times in 15 summers.

Don Elliott

https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthreads/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/1919/ppuser/4127
 
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