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TR6 TR6 rear brake rebuild

hondo402000

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started out as a fun drive, stopped to get petrol, left the hand brake on and after a few miles noticed the brake peddle was braking at a different point, lower than usual, so I made a bee line for the house. I figured I smoked the brakes so I got new shoes, and then figured the drums were egged shape so ordered new drums, and new flex hoses for the rear, new shoes since what I bought local didnt match up, new springs too. but I missed the pin and spring clips. so I go to auto zone and the guy lets me go thru the bens and s get the pins and regular springs that work perfect

part number H 7204(brakeware) I didnt really like the spring clips that triumph uses so up graded, see photos. now the qestion, how much brake travel to most of you have to engage the brakes, 1/8 peddle, 1/4 peddle/ 1/2 peddle??? whats is nomal? I adjusted the rear brake adjuster and could go one more click but curious at to what is considered normal
 

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TR3driver

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Isn't that upside down? I thought the adjusters went near the top (10 o'clock or 2 o'clock, depending on which side).

Anyway, I don't think you should adjust the rear brakes by pedal travel. Too many other variables, like how badly the joint between the pedal and pushrod is worn, and how long the pushrod out of the booster is adjusted.
 

Andrew Mace

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With properly functioning and properly adjusted brakes, there should be very little pedal movement (by your scale, maybe 1/8 total pedal travel at most!) before you start to get braking action. Perhaps you still have air in the lines, and perhaps you'll still need to adjust some more (assuming the fronts are ok).

Did you do anything with the wheel cylinders? and do they slide as they are supposed to?

Interesting on the retaining springs you ended up with, since they're essentially the same as most of the "small car" (Herald, Spitfire, etc.) rear drum brakes use, rather than the "spring clips" used on most of the big TRs to hold the pins!

And Randall, that's pretty much the orientation shown in my Triumph TR250/5/6 Repair Operation Manual. I don't know about the 4A IRS, but from other 250s and 6s I've seen, this is correct and different from the orientation seen on the solid-axle cars.
 

mrv8q

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FWIW, here's a shot of my rear brakes <span style="font-style: italic">before</span> I checked the trailing arm studs:
IMG_0842-1.jpg

I found it much easier to adjust the brakes themselves by rebuilding the rear brake adjusters; they were both frozen w/ crud. Very simple to adjust the brakes afterwards. Also, a touch of lithium grease behind the clips. From here, you have different spring on your shoes than I have... (notice my upper springs).
 
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hondo402000

hondo402000

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I dont think there is air in the lines, I know the feel of spongy brakes, the front brakes were rebuilt last year, new SS piston, new rotors and new pads, I know the adjustment with the brake booster since I replace it and the MC last year too, I did adjust the little round headed bolt in the booster in fact that was a PITA because if you get it too far out the plunger in the MC wont come back far enough to release the pressure on the brakes and eventually the brakes lock up, I know this for a fact. Guess I could rebleed all brakes again, check the booster adjustment, I read some where there should be about 0.010 clearance between the head of the adjuster and the housing using a straight edge with engine running?

thanks
 

TR3driver

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Andrew Mace said:
And Randall, that's pretty much the orientation shown in my Triumph TR250/5/6 Repair Operation Manual. I don't know about the 4A IRS, but from other 250s and 6s I've seen, this is correct and different from the orientation seen on the solid-axle cars.
I did not know that. Thanks, Andy. The Stag has the cylinder on the top, but it's an entirely different setup with a dual-acting cylinder and automatic adjuster mechanism.
 

TR4nut

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Not sure at all if it makes any difference, but that top return spring doesn't look the same as I remember, nor is it the same as in Kevin's picture.

Randy
 
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hondo402000

hondo402000

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as far as the top return spring, I purchased all parts from TRF and yes the top spring was different from the one I replaced but the length and spring tension was the same. I am using Castrol regular brake fluid. I also replaced the rubber hoses at the rear and man the old ones were really spongy feeling
 

Andrew Mace

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TR3driver said:
I did not know that. Thanks, Andy. The Stag has the cylinder on the top, but it's an entirely different setup with a dual-acting cylinder and automatic adjuster mechanism.
You're welcome! Stags use a Lockheed system, do they not, similar to the 2000/2500/2.5?
 

Brosky

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That looks OK to me, with the exception of the position of the hold down spring on the right shoe. Here's mine, from last fall's rebuild.
 

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