TR6 Rear brake drum temperature TR6

[ichthos]

Hello,
I tried doing a search to find out what temp the rear brake drums get, but I found a wide range on the internet. Does anyone know what the upper temperature limit would be for the rear brake drums on a TR6? I would think they would not get that hot since most of the braking action is in the front. The reason I want to know this? I am trying to figure out which powdercoat paint to use. The standard powdercoat paint I use is good up to 250 degrees. Eastwood offers a high temp powder paint that is good up to 1000 degrees, but it costs three times as much, and only comes in satin black (the rest of the black on my car is painted semigloss black). Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Kevin

 

[prb51]

Why not rattle can them with a high temp semi gloss black from your flaps? I've done mine that way and since they don't touch anything and are readilly touched up why bother with the expense.

 

[TR3driver]

How hot they get depends a good deal on your driving habits, etc. But I would say it's very easy to exceed 250F.

I've seen them actually glow red after driving with the brakes stuck on (or handbrake not released), which would likely kill even your 1000F PC.

 

[Brosky]

Keep in mind that heavy amounts of paint can act as an insulator keeping heat inside the drum, rather than letting it escape.

 

[poolboy]

I've seen them actually glow red after driving with the brakes stuck on (or handbrake not released), which would likely kill even your 1000F PC.

You're right about that.
Emmett1010 and I were riding in my 6 to go see his TR3 that he's restoring. I was so busy catching up on old times that I didn't notice that my hand brake was stiil engaged, until I stopped to let him take the wheel.
I tapped the drums with my finger and I tell you they were as hot as a frying pan. Only the callous prevented a blister.
BTW, Emmett1010 is going to have a real gem.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Why not rattle can them with a high temp semi gloss black...

That's what I have done and they have held up fine. Considering my driving habits and the slighty over-engineered weight of those 10" TR3 drums a bit of paint isn't going to cause me any heat problems.

Unless you feel compelled to PC whenever and wherever possible, rattle-can should be fine.

Glad to see you're staying with black -- I never cared much for the bling look or aluminum paint on drums behind a set of wires.

 

[MadMarx]

To have them nice I painted them with caliper paint coat and used a normal brush. After some races the paint color is getting a little darker but still nice.
The temperature is max 250°C.

Cheers
Chris

 

[DNK]

Chris -Where the heck you been?
Hanging out in the racing forums. Us street guys to tame for ya?

 

[Tinster]

Go for a drive on an expressway and take
your speed up to 75MPH; with your handy dandy
infrared thermometer gun beside you..

Then panic brake your car to zero, jump out and quickly
shoot a rear drum with your heat pistola - you will get
a "rough" approximation of the brake drum temp.

Wear a pair of old pants.

d

 

[MadMarx]

Tame?
Maybe your speed limits force you to be tame.

I had 5 engine blows this year, the most embarrassing season I ever had.
And my job prevented me from writing much.

For this year I want to leave the standard racing head behind and will search for more power with larger valves and changed combustion chambers. The car will be converted to plastic panels to become lighter.

Hope this will help to get more in front part of the grid.

 

[DNK]

Maybe you need a more reliable race car. Like a TR8

 

[MadMarx]

If I would go with V8 then I would chose something more powerful:

Ford GT 40 or a Corvette.

Porsche would be fine too if it is a 917.

 

[DNK]

Now your dreaming

 

[MadMarx]

True - but a Corvette would be in range.
But before thinking about this I have to win with my TR4.