Hey Vette,
Your readings are pretty much dead on for a fresh motor. Cold oil pressure readings are decieving. Of course the oil viscosity & chemical make up will also make reading vary. I always get lower readings & more valve noise with Castrol 10w-40. Is it bad oil, no, but the additives are designed to work differantly.
You'll get an accurate reading after 30 minutes of run time. This gives the oil enough time to reach normal operating temps. You'll also find your readings will decline after a nice stint at 50+ mph when you come to a stop but it should recover after a few minutes.
The spec reading at idle should be 800-850 rpm unless you have a lumpy cam. Anything above 15psi @ idle fully warmed is kosher. 50psi at 3,000 rpm is ok but 65-70psi with 10w-40 oil is desired. If your below 10psi it's time to think about some new parts.
PS Many engine rebuilds that include new large & small bearings to repair low oil pressure neglect the cam journals. The TR6 cam rides in the block with out cam bearings. This works remarkably well, until it wears. Engines with higher valve spring rates or over 100,000 miles that don't address the bores in the block will probably suffer a loss of oil pressure & lack of good lubrication to the rocker assembly. Installing cam bearings are not cheap but going through all that work TWICE isn't cost effective either.