TR2/3/3A TR3 Water Pump

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha All,

I have a leaking water pump. I haven't removed it from the engine, but I am observing water flying off of the water pump pulley. I am assuming that the water seal has failed and water is leaking down the shaft and through the bearings and replacing the pump is needed. My question is, should I upgrade to a six vane impeller pump (about a $20 add) or use a stock water pump? I have not had any over heating problems with the stock water pump.

Mahalo, and Safety Fast,
Dave

 

[Geo Hahn]

I have never had a problem keeping cool with the stock pump. Some repros do have vanes that are noticably shallower, I would avoid these.

I just recently got a pump off eBay that looks stock, has a functional grease zerk, deep vanes on a non-ferrous impeller, came with a stock type pulley (woodruff key, pull-off type) for about $90 bucks.

Was made in the UK and sold out of Idaho. Can probably find or remember the seller's name if someone is interested.

Disclaimer: I have not yet actually used this pump, it is my spare as I had to use my prior spare on the TR3.

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha George,

Thanks for your advice. I have a spare stock water pump so I'll use that.

Safety Fast,
Dave

 

[Don Elliott]

Dave - If your spare pump has a cast iron impeller and your defective one has a brass or bronze impeller, look at the difference. 85,000 miles ago, I had to get a new water pump. When I saw the poor quality and the smaller cast iron impeller, I had a machine shop repair my original pump with a new seal and bearings plus they made me a new shaft out of stainless steel. 16 years later and it's still like new. It'll never leak.

Don Elliott, Original Owner 1958 TR3A TS 27489 LO
https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthread...e=&sortdir=

 

[Geo Hahn]

The pump I referred to:

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34201&item=4559530853

Yes, a rebuilt original would be my first choice but so many of these cars are now running with repros not worth rebuilding.

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha guys,

I should get the spare water pump from my son tomorrow and will check the impeller. Most of the original parts can be rebuilt and are superior to "new" replacement parts. Fuel pumps are one the immediately comes to mind.

Safety Fast,
Dave

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi Dave,

If you decide to rebuild a water pump, you might want to check locally for a Massey Ferguson tractor dealer. The same water pump was used on the older tractors, as on the cars. The pump and parts for it are often a lot cheaper at a MF dealer. There are MF dealers all over the U.S., I even found one here in San Jose, where we don't have a great deal of farming going on since the orchards were replaced by high tech industry (Well, there are a few server farms, I suppose).

On the other hand, I bought the upgraded, 6-vane type from British Frame & Engine (www.britishframeandengine.com). It is a lot more expensive, but I'm running a fairly modified engine and want to be sure I'm getting all the cooling possible.

The main advantage of 6-vanes is that pulsations in coolant flow are lessened, a more steady and even flow is produced. Plus the curved vanes are less likely to cavitate at higher rpms. I can't report how it works yet (work in progress) but the upgrade has been pretty well proven in the British vintage race/rally group.

Another major problem with many of the repros offered today is that the inside of the fanbelt pulley rubs against the housing of the pump. I was very pleased to see that the housing of the pump I bought from BF&E had been machined so there is no chance of that happening.

Just a thought.... A good trick while the water pump is out is to replace the single bolt with a stud, if that's not already been done. This makes water pump replacement much easier in the future.

With the bolt, you're supposed to remove the pulley first, and that can be tricky under the hood, even in the comfort of a garage. Putting the pulley back on under the hood can be a fight, too, coaxing the Woodruff key back into place.

Especially, replacing the bolt with a stud makes an emergency water pump swap at the side of the road on a dark and stormy night oh so much easier.

The replacement studs were originally intended for use with the repro pumps with the non-removeable, pressed-on pulleys. But, the stud works equally well on pumps with the original, bolted-on pulley. Most of the Triumph vendors sell the replacement studs, but it's a standard size you might be able to find locally or cut down from one that is slightly longer. (3/8 NF on one end, 3/8 NC on the other, if I recall correctly)

One last thing, the original seals used in TR water pumps required 45 seconds of "dry" break-in when first installed, to seat properly. That meant not topping up the coolant right away and running the engine briefly. This was the method described by the factory repair manual.

However, most modern replacement pumps have a different type of seal and shouldn't be broken in this way. Be sure to ask about proper break-in procedure, when buying a water pump or parts for one. I can tell you that the BF&E high performance pump uses a modern seal and should not be run through a dry break-in.

Cheers!

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L

 

[Geo Hahn]

[ QUOTE ]
...With the bolt, you're supposed to remove the pulley first, and that can be tricky under the hood...

[/ QUOTE ]

The stud is a neat trick. If you prefer the bolt or simply still have the bolt in place a simple water pump pulley puller can be fashioned out of angle iron and a few bolts:

Knocks down to take almost no space in the spares box.