TR2/3/3A Removing the water pump on a TR3?

[karls59tr]

Is it possible to get a pulley puller between the rad and pump or do I have to pull the rad? Did someone mention an aftermarket pump that someone made that wasn't from the Big 3?

 

[Moseso]

One does not need to pull the rad to get the water pump out.

I've never needed a puller, either. "Remove the nut and wiggle the pulley off" has always worked for me.

 

[TR3driver]

I always remove the pump and pulley as a unit (which can be done without removing the radiator). Then separate the pump & pulley on the bench, with a puller as needed. (My opinion, it should be tight enough to need a puller. If not, use some Loctite.)

If you have the original bolt at the upper RH corner, the bolt stays trapped between the pump & pulley until the pulley is removed. But it can still come off the engine while trapped in place. I ran the aftermarket pump with the fixed pulley for many years, so I have a stud in place of that bolt.

With the studs at 2 or 3 locations, the nut cannot come off until the pump is pulled partway out. So, loosen each nut until it touches the pulley, then work the pump out to get enough room to remove the nuts. When reinstalling, start each nut by just a turn or three. When they are all installed, you can spin them down and do the final tightening.

 

[Geo Hahn]

I've posted it before so we'll call this a selection from 'The Best of Geo':

Just another way to approach the task.

 

[karls59tr]

That's a cool gadget. Looks like it might take the pulley off with the pump and rad still in place?

 

[karls59tr]

Randall I was out for a Sunday drive in the 3 and heard a bang. I pulled over and opened the hood. The pump pulley was on top of the steering box! It was too hot to touch. Apparently the threaded part of the pulley bolt had snapped off and the pulley must have been riding on the pump neck for awhile because it had polished it shiny. The mangled fan belt was jammed to the top of the pump. Would running the belt too tight likely cause the pulley bolt end to snap? Too much stress on thin end of the bolt?

 

[TR3driver]

My opinion, having the pulley too loose on the shaft is the problem. I had exactly the same thing happen a few months after I "borrowed" the pulley to try on another pump. The nut was tight and the fan belt about the same as I always run it.

Had to use a puller to get the pulley off the original pump, and tap it onto the other pump. But then when I moved it back to the original pump, it slid into place with only hand pressure. Apparently the new pump had a shaft just a smidgeon bigger than the old original pump.

It's mounted with Loctite RC609 now.

 

[TR3driver]

Apparently the threaded part of the pulley bolt had snapped off

Just in case it is not clear; that is not a bolt but the threaded end of the shaft itself. You need a new pump as well as a new pulley (meaning you might as well remove them together).

In theory, it might be possible to drill and tap the shaft; but most likely the "shiny place" means that the shaft is also worn slightly undersize.

 

[Drmaracux]

I am missing the bolt in the bottom left hand side. Anyone know what size it is? Also would be interested in using the mentioned stud instead. Again what size do I need?

 

[Hamish Racing]

Think it’s the same as the head inlet/exhaust stud
i found a ref by a part/s supplier that states
‘The parts book lists a stud for use in the position where the bolt goes. From memory it is TE506241 that's 3/8 UNF one end UNC the other x 3 inches long.”

 

[Basil]

You replied to a very old thread. Suggest you might want to start a new thread with the topic of interest.

 

[Basil]

I am missing the bolt in the bottom left hand side. Anyone know what size it is? Also would be interested in using the mentioned stud instead. Again what size do I need?

You replied to a very old topic. Suggest you might want to start a new topic.