Hi again,
Are you asking about the front fulcrum pin the leaf spring rides on? Assuming it's the same as my TR4, there is a D-shaped washer used on that, preventing so the nut tightens on the sleeve inside the bushing, which will allow adequate movement. Perhaps I should clarify, it's actually the *hole* in the washer that's D-shaped, which acts to prevent the washer spinning on the pin and comes up against a shoulder to prevent overtightening.
The nut used on my TR4 is castellated, like yours, and fitted with a cotter pin to keep it from backing off. So, it doesn't have to be super tight. Just good and snug.
Incidentally, I think Revington TR offers heavier duty D-washers for use at that pin, to help keep the axle well located in hard cornering... I suppose it depends on how "spirited" your driving will be, whether those are useful or not.
I recommend putting some "Copper slip" anti-sieze compound on the pin, inside the bushing sleeve and on the nut and threads, to help prevent rust. Those nuts and the sleeve inside the bushing tend to sieze together pretty quickly. Permatex makes a copper-based anti-sieze compound simlar to what the British call "Copper slip" that's available in tubes and cans. They also make an aluminum based anti-sieze, for higher temperatures such as spark plugs, etc., that would probably also work fine.
In the rear, at the shackle hangers, there are either rubber or upgraded polyurethane bushings used. No anti-sieze compound needed. In fact, I was concerned about those nuts loosening, not seizing, so I fitted nylocks. Unfortunately there aren't a lot of threads and it needed "low profile" or "short" nylocks, which I was having trouble finding, so I just cut some down to size with my handy, dandy Dremel tool. I suppose some Locktite with standard nuts would work pretty well, too.
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