TR2/3/3A TR3 Crank Pulley Removal

[Hatman]

Any tips on removing the crank pulley from a 59 TR3? Manual gives you that optimistic "tap lightly with a hammer to remove." I've tried tapping, banging, heating the pulley then cooling the shaft quickly and tapping, prying, cursing, etc., to no avail. I might be able to use a gear puller if I can block the end of the hollow shaft, but I'd think that's going to bend the pulley.

Any secrets/tips/advice?

 

[TR3driver]

The pulley flanges are way soft, don't try to pull on them. Instead, put bolts into either the fan bolt holes, or the holes where the bolts hold the extension to the hub; and pull against those. A steering wheel puller should let you use the fan holes. The other holes would work with a harmonic balancer puller, but you'll have to source some really long 1/4" bolts to reach them.

I'd suggest a length of rod for the center, but you could probably make do with the original crank dog. Just leave it unscrewed by 1/4" or so, and put a smaller bolt into the crank pilot hole for the puller screw to bear against.

Just theory on my part, as I removed the fan extension years ago. But since my hub is mounted with Loctite (because the crank nose is worn undersize), I've had to apply some serious force the last couple of times to get the hub off. The harmonic balancer puller worked a treat.

 

[Don Elliott]

If you are into a serious engine re-build, you could remove the oil pan, block the crank from turning with a 2 by 4 and undo the front crank bolt. I use my air compressor and the socket on the end of my compressed -air power wrench, like I do when I'm trying to remove wheel nuts.

 

[Hatman]

Hmmm, maybe I'm not understanding here. The fan is off, the fan extension is off, so the crank nut (bolt, actually) is long gone. I'm left with a pulley with six bolts sticking out the front. The bolts cannot be removed until the pulley is off the crank, so there's nothing to thread a steering wheel puller into, and the bolts themselves are too short to use.

It looks like the crank pulley his held on with a woodruff key.

Not rebuilding the engine, just checking/replacing timing chain while I have the apron off and the radiator out.

 

[TR3driver]

Oops, my mistake. I forgot that I turned those bolts around so they could be removed with the hub still in place. Normally the extension and hub are removed as one piece.

In your case, best suggestion I have is "coupling nuts" that would let you couple puller bolts to the existing bolts.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/114/3134

Or put the extension back on

 

[TR4nut]

I just did this - you can carefully put a steering wheel puller on some of those 6 bolts. That will give you enough force to pull the hub off. Didn't take a picture of the operation, but can snap a shot of the puller I used if you need it.

Randall's thought on coupling nuts would work great if needed, I was able to get the puller on using the existing bolts.

Randy

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha Mark,

In addition to all the other advice, don't forget to mark the position to the TDC hole in relationship to the key way. Assuming that it is currently correctly positioned.

 

[Hatman]

Tried the steering wheel puller, but the fan extension bolts were too short and I wasn't in the mood to try to find the coupling nuts locally. Went back to my gear puller.

Removing the cross-brace helped free up some room to manuever, and I got it in place and started cranking. The fan hub actually started coming off fairly easily with the puller, but it's a long pull -- I had to flip the puller arms around halfway through, and even then had to rig up some extra spacers to pull it all the way off. No damage to the pulley or hub. That woodruff key is going to be a PITA to get off, although it looks like I can remove the lower timing gear with it in place if necessary.

I'm going to check the timing gears and chain, paint the cover and change the seal, etc. Once I start buttoning things back up, a Moss narrow belt drive kit is going on (ordered this week during their 20% off sale), along with a Denso alternator, electric fan, and an Advance Auto Wire harness.

As always, thanks for the tips and advice.

 

[Don Elliott]

A woodruff key is shaped a bit like a crescent moon. Get a small screwdriver and put the tip under the extended end of the key. Then tap the end of the screwdriver gently with a hammer and you will lift the key out the slot. It's so easy.

 

[Hatman]

A woodruff key is shaped a bit like a crescent moon. Get a small screwdriver and put the tip under the extended end of the key. Then tap the end of the screwdriver gently with a hammer and you will lift the key out the slot. It's so easy.

Yep, already tried all the usual tricks. Not budging. They sometimes "become one" with the keyway, so I'll probably have to get a little abusive to get it out.

 

[Don Elliott]

Mark - Once you get it out, pass a fine file over the outer sides to remove all the crud and build-up so it'll go back in nicely and then in 50 more years when you want to take it out again, it'll be a snap.

 

[Hatman]

Will do -- thanks for the tip.

 

[TR3driver]

Go easy with that file, though. You still want a very snug fit.