TR2/3/3A TR3 Choke cable

[fogdot]

I have a little interference with the choke cable and the heater in my 60 TR3. The heater puts a strain on the stiff portion of the cable behind the dash. Wrong cable? Improper heater mounting?
It doesn't prevent anything from working, so it is a low priority, but it is working its way up the list.
Dave

 

[Don Elliott]

When I restored my 1958 TR3A (TS 27489 LO) there was a bit of interference, so I slipped a length of clear plastic tubing about a foot long over it and forced it to one side, up out the way to the right so I could open the heater door and I clamped it to the far RHS corner screw that holds the bracket which comes forward to hold the dashboard.

On the one we finished last June (TS 81551 L) I had a more serious problem. So out came the heater and we shortened the support studs on the heater and removed some circular spacers which permitted us to mount the heater about 1/4" to 3/8" higher. This gave us the clearance we needed. We also clamped the outer sheath of the choke cable as above. but we didn't need the plastic tubing.

I think the problem arises when the battery box is replaced and the supports for the channels which support the dash are welded to the back of the battery box too low. You could try spacers at the far end of these dash support channels to lift the heater body.

 

[CaptRoy]

I had the same problem on my TR3A... I loosened the brackets and lifted the heater and managed to slide it a little toward the driver and then tightened everything. It still hits a little but like yours it works fine...

 

[TRclassic3]

Same thing on mine. Hits but does not obstruct. I thought it may have been part of my problem with the choke being so hard to pull, but I now don't believe that to be an issue as I have resolved that for the most part.

Like you, it is not near the top of my list...and most likely won't be.

 

[NickMorgan]

Dave,
The choke cable on my TR3 runs under the heater, but it does touch it. The battery tray hasn't been replaced on my car and I should imagine that the heater has never been out. I can send you a picture if that would help.
Nick

 

[PeterK]

Mine hits too, both the original cable and the original-type replacement cable from TRF hits the same sopt - right across the Smith's plate on the heater. A little discouraging after restoring the heated and getting the wrinkle paint just right and replacing the Smith's plate with a new one, oh well.

I use a piece of rubber tubing over the piece that rubs. Battery box was replaced so maybe that's what did it.

No biggie for me though.

 

[NutmegCT]

Just wondering on this - the first post asks about "interference".

As the cable *sheathing* (the outer part of the cable) is the part that touches stuff under the dash, and the cable sheathing doesn't move (does it?), why would touching cause any problems? Isn't it just the cable *inside* the sheathing that moves?

I can imagine a problem if that sheathing is *bent* around something, or kinked, or whatever. But if the sheathing is just touching something, how can that affect anything?

Thanks.
Tom

 

[fogdot]

The interference is between the heater and the first several inches of the cable. That is the part that doesn't flex. It causes a bit of a cocking (almost imperceptible) of the cable. It has no effect on the operation of the cable, but I'm sure that even British engineers wouldn't have designed it that way.

 

[Don Elliott]

It's real PROBLEM if the interference prevents you from opening the heater door on that side and your wife complains that she's not getting any heat.