Shock absorber disassembly

[roscoe]

Hello all,
I've been poking around with re-sealing a spare front shock absorber. Has anyone disassembled one (I have read the threads concerning these, and I do not have the money for the conversion kits)? It appears that there is no way to press out the main shaft. The center bushing that the shaft goes through has a rather large rectangular stake impression, which I assume keeps the shaft in position, and prevents it from being removed. If this is the case, the only way to reseal them would be to remove the existing seals, and install what-ever type of seal I end up using by pressing them over the saft ends. This is all possible, and I know there is at least one well respected rebuilder and the cost is not the issue. It boils down to the problem I have with regard to doing everything myself. I'm stuck, you see. I can't possibly send it out until I have thoroughly convinced myself that the job can't be done by me. Of course I know it makes more sense to let someone who has already done the research, to make a little money by sending it out, but I just can't. At least not yet. Thanks.

 

[GregW]

Hi Roscoe,
I think you have the last set in the entire world. If you mess em up, there ain't no more. Send them out.







Was that convincing?

 

[roscoe]

I don't, unfortunately, have a whole set. Just one spare front unit. It isn't going anywhere until I give-up. I've messed up enough things to know when I'm about to do it again (well, most of the time). It doesn't always stop me. The satisfaction is enormous when you win one. I once got out of the car and did a little "end-zone" dance when I finally got the overdrive to work......

 

[Randy Forbes]

They can be taken apart; I've done it.

 

[John_Progess]

Roscoe,
I have put new seals in the front shocks on my 64 BJ8. The shaft does press out and the replacement seals are about $8 at a local bearing house. You want to be careful and get the shaft in the same location on the center support so you have the range of motion when you are done and don't remove the pistons. A potential problem is a scored shaft which would relquire speedy sleeves which are pricy. Have a good day!

John

 

[Cutlass]

Might I suggest that you find a used set of similar shocks to practice on. I'm not aware of the fine differences between different lever shocks, but it can't be that great. You didn't mention what kind of equipment you have. Seems to me an appropriately sized press, with support blocks, bearing guides and reamers would be the minimum non-standard tools necessary.

Another thought. How about taking some pictures along the way. I've always thought that this job should be within the range of a skilled hobbyist, and would be curious if that's true.

 

[roscoe]

Thanks John, Cutlass,and Randy,
I have a one ton arbor press and access to a hydraulic press. There is a good belt/bearing/chain/seal supply store near me (one advantage of living in an agricultural community). Pressing plates/pullers etc. are also in the tool kit. I'll take some pictures, but it may be a while before I get to it.

 

[BUNDYRUM]

Hello roscoe,

I like your determination or is that stubborness, either way I am the same.
I have used speedy sleeves in the past and haven't found them to be expensive, considering what the alternative is.
It will be interesting to see what you come up with.

bundyrum.

 

[roscoe]

A modicum of mechanical ability, stubbornness, and being very tight with a buck. It's a bad combination sometimes. The worst thing my wife can say to me is "maybe we should hire someone to do that". Boy howdy, does that get me motivated.

 

[PeterC]

Jon, and others, I think I can help. I've done a "few" over the past 25 or so years.

Yes, you can take them apart with a press, even with a hammer. Speaking of a front Healey shock: First, with the shock on the bench, measure the height of the arms off the bench at full up. You'll need that later. Undo the pinch bolt and connecting bolt so you can separate the arms from each other and the pinch-bolted arm from the shaft. Leave the other splned arm on the shaft! Support the body and push the shaft and arm assembly out of the body. (yes, you will distort the ring you mentioned that's in the rocker assembly.. that's OK.

Once you have the shaft out, remove the 2 large flat washers and the piston assembly with rocker arm. They may come easy, or require lots of heat on the outside of the body. Depends on corrosion in the bore. You can usually lever the rocker assembly out from the shaft holes, moving it up until you can get a screwdriver under the assembly. Try not to ding the shaft bore as there is no bearing in the soft zinc cast body. Pry out the packing and the steel washer that retains it.

Now comes the dilemma. There is no seal manufactured that properly fits the shaft and the bore in the body. There are some that are close. There is also no replaceable bearing in the shock body. If you want to use a true radial lip oil seal, like what is on a wheel bearing or such, you will need to somehow "glue" one in, or carefully machine the body to a larger size for a different seal. Also, if the shaft is pitted or scored (likely) you need to recondition the seal running surface. A Speedi-Sleeve will work for that. Also, for a seal to work properly, the shaft has to have nearly zero runout, so the bearing surfaces in the shock have to be very good.

Some "rebuilders" will RTV in a seal, and sand/grind/polish the shaft to fit. They may even bore the body for a bronze bearing. Some other "rebuilders" will mimic the original packing and insert 4 or 5 rubber washers to fill the bore and then add a steel washer to hold it all in against the bolsters on the shock arm.

You may very well be able to do this. It "can" be successful for a while. You can probably imagine that there's a better way, too.

When you re-assemble, it is the reverse procedure. Pay attention to the orientation of the rocker splines to the shaft splines. The pistons should be a full up, or down, and the arm at the same height of off the bench as before. Insert the rocker assembly, insert the thrust washers note the ID so they matche the 2 diameters of the shaft. Press the shaft in. Once in, smack that ring into the dent in the shaft. Now finish the assembly.

I could go into the valve business and bleeding if you need.

I should probably do a Wiki on this or something, but I can't figure out how. I have pictures, too, if you need.

Good luck! It's how I started many years ago.

Peter C.

 

[roscoe]

Peter,
Thank you for the great information. I suspect that this job will remain one that I'll be glad I did when it is done, but would not want to do for anyone else. You are most generous to provide this information, which I'm sure came at the cost of a few shock absorber parts, and lots of time spent trying various seals etc. It would be reasonable for you to think of this as propriatary information, but you choose to share it. Thanks.

 

[PeterC]

Jon, it isn't proprietary at all. This is NOT how we do the rebuild, but the method is within the scope of the DIYer.

Our procedure requires proprietary parts, and expensive fixtures and machining operations that would be hard to justify for a few units.

Glad to help.

Peter

 

[Cutlass]

I had Peter rebuild all four of my shocks. Well worth the money. Very professional.

 

[MarkA]

Peter rebuilt my shocks and I have been very happy with them since! Although, I do miss the smoking from the left rear after filling up the shocks!