• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
  • When posting a classified ad, you MUST select a prefix from the drop-down next to the subject line. If you don't you will get an error and your ad will not be posted!
Tips
Tips

Shock Absorber test

Share this page

R

Richter12x2

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Just purchased new shocks for the GT6 from Victoria British, and these are the old fluid shocks, not gas charged.

With gas charged struts, you can bench test by pressing them in slowly and they'll slowly return. These don't return automatically, which is probably fine, but I was wondering if there were any tricks to bench testing these fluid filled shocks just to make sure they're all fine before we put them on the car?
 
Same way we've been doing it for 50-60 years.
Hook one end in a vise or if an eyelet end, stick a punch throught it and step in the punch, pull up and push down.
Should be hard both pulling up and pushing down.
New shocks often won't be right until you cycle them once or twice.
Laying flat in boxes, air getting into the system.
Pumps right out.

Once you see how new shocks feel, you can check them later under the car by unhooking the bottom end and pushing, pulling.
If it feels the same as new, it's okay.

Dave
 
Just supply the return force yourself. IOW when you pull the rod out, it should move slowly and smoothly. Then push it back in, same thing.

Note that they should be held upright while doing this, and it may take a few strokes to work any air out of the valves.
 
Randall - do folks still use the "jump on the bumper" test for mounted (standard oil filled) shocks?

Push the bumper down a couple times, let go, and see if it keeps bouncing, or stops. Keeps bouncing = bad shocks. Stops bouncing immediately = shocks are ok.

Tom
 
NutmegCT said:
Randall - do folks still use the "jump on the bumper" test for mounted (standard oil filled) shocks?
Click to expand...
I do, except the TR bumpers aren't that strong!
grin.gif


With the UHMW between the leaves, it was easy to tell that I had a bad rear shock on the TR3. Even though I couldn't push the car down very far, the bad corner bounced, while all the others just rose back to the original position and stopped.
 
Excellent thanks! I suspected they were all fine, but the lack of automatic return like on gas charge struts/shocks concerned my wife, so I figured we'd ask here to be sure. :smile:
 
I did the bumper test on my TR6 which seemed O.K. until I replaced both front shocks and one was totally shot!
 
Bumper test does not work to well on our relatively low mass and short suspension travel cars, I had an Austin Healey for which both rear shocks were gone, one had frozen and stripped the arm the other no resistance, you couldn't tell a thing by bouncing the bumper, particulary on leaf sprung cars I think the leaves have enough friction that it isn't a good test.
 
Back
Top